The Dermatology Journal

A close-up of a cleansing foam, symbolizing a daily facial cleansing routine.
Enlarged Pores: Mistakes That Make Them More Visible
Enlarged pores: everyday habits that worsen them without us realizing it, and what dermatology really knows about skin texture and pores. Read more...
Close-up of skin texture, fine grain, and natural, low-angle lighting
Microcomedones on the face: Why this bumpy skin doesn't clear up like a simple blackhead
Micro-cysts on the face, skin that feels grainy to the touch: how they really differ from a typical closed comedone, and why they persist for so long. Read more...
Close-up of skin, golden grain and texture, natural light
Closed comedones on the face: why they're so stubborn, and what makes them worse
Closed comedones on the face, whiteheads under the skin: why they persist despite skincare, and what you might be doing without realizing it that makes them worse. Read more...
Hands under the clear water from a faucet—a daily part of the face-washing routine
Flaking Skin on the Face: Normal or a Warning Sign?
Flaky Skin on the Face: The Most Common Causes of Flaking, and Why Certain Symptoms Really Warrant a Visit to a Dermatologist. Read more...
Close-up of smooth, natural-looking skin without makeup
Gluconolactone and salicylic acid: the gentle exfoliating duo that’s gentle on the skin
Gluconolactone and salicylic acid: why this duo of gentle exfoliants is suitable for sensitive, blemish-prone skin without irritating the skin barrier. Read more...
An amber serum bottle resting on a light-colored surface, with a translucent texture, bathed in the natural light of late afternoon.
Vitamin C Serum: What You (Really) Shouldn't Combine It With
Vitamin C, retinol, exfoliating acids: Which combinations should you really avoid, and how can you ensure that a vitamin C serum remains truly effective? Read more...
Niacinamide Is Ineffective: Why the Problem Rarely Lies in What It's Combined With
Niacinamide Is Ineffective: Why the Problem Rarely Lies in What It's Combined With
Is niacinamide ineffective? The real problem is almost never the combination of ingredients: concentration, consistency, and the order of application matter much more. Read more...
A dropper bottle of serum sitting on a light-colored wooden shelf, bathed in the light of late afternoon.
Retinol: Combinations That Cancel Out Its Effects or Irritate the Skin
Retinol: Which combinations cancel out its effects or irritate the skin, and which ones enhance them without you even realizing it. What dermatology confirms. Read more...
A bottle of serum and a dropper resting on a light-colored surface, with soft lighting.
Azelaic acid: What You Should Never Combine It With—and Why
Azelaic acid: Why it doesn't mix well with just any active ingredient. What we know about good and bad combinations—without irritating the skin. Read more...
Close-up of slightly damp facial skin after physical exertion, in natural light, without makeup.
Pimples After Exercise: What Really Happens to Your Skin Before and After Working Out
Pimples After Exercise: Why Sweat and Friction Weaken the Skin, and the Right Steps to Take Before and After Each Workout. Read more...
Close-up of fine-textured facial skin, natural light, no makeup.
Tight, flaky skin: the telltale signs of over-exfoliation
Over-exfoliated skin: How to recognize the signs of a compromised skin barrier—and why doing more is never the right way to repair it. Read more...
A passenger at an airplane window, soft light, a relaxed face, makeup-free skin.
Tight skin, dull complexion: what's really happening to your skin on a plane
Tight skin, dull complexion after a flight: what cabin air really does to your skin—and the one thing you should do before landing. Read more...
Face upon waking, soft morning light, well-rested skin without makeup.
Dull skin, dark circles: How a lack of sleep really affects your skin
Lack of sleep and dull skin: what really happens to your face at night, from skin regeneration to the appearance of dark circles. Read more...
The reflection of a face in a bathroom mirror, the soft light of late afternoon, the calm atmosphere of a Sunday evening.
Why Sunday-evening flare-ups aren't a coincidence
Weekend breakouts that appear on Sunday night: what sleep deprivation, sugar, and alcohol really do to your skin—no mystery here. Read more...
A portrait in soft light of a face at rest, with a neutral expression, natural skin texture, and a calm, minimalist atmosphere.
Stressed Skin: What Stress Really Does to the Skin, Beyond Common Misconceptions
People often say that skin is “stressed.” Science now explains the real connection between stress and skin—one that goes far beyond just pimples. Read more...
Close-up of a man's face at rest, natural light, visible skin texture, understated and neutral atmosphere.
Oily skin, visible pores: what a men's skincare routine really needs to address
Thicker, oilier skin, more noticeable pores, daily shaving: these are the factors a true men’s skincare routine should take into account—without overdoing it on products. Read more...
Close-up of a cheek at rest, soft, diffused lighting, skin without noticeable redness, a calm and understated atmosphere.
Rosacea or Sensitive Skin: How to Tell the Difference
Rosacea or sensitive skin? Two very distinct conditions that are often confused. Learn to tell them apart before choosing your skincare routine, so you don’t use the wrong products. Read more...
A face in profile, illuminated by soft, natural light; even-toned skin; a calm and minimalist atmosphere.
Red, Tight Skin: Understanding Rosacea Without Panicking
Persistent redness, tight skin: Rosacea is a chronic vascular condition, not a sign of poor hygiene. How to recognize it without panicking. Read more...
A close-up of textured skin in natural light, unretouched, evoking the subtle effects of the sun on the skin.
What Really Happens to Your Skin When You Skip Sunscreen
The effects of a day without sunscreen aren't immediately apparent. What UV rays actually do to the skin, one mechanism after another, day after day. Read more...
A hand applies cream with its fingertips to the skin, bathed in soft natural light—a daily skincare ritual.
Daily Sun Protection: Why This Simple Step Makes All the Difference—Even in Winter
Why daily sun protection matters all year round, even on cloudy days: what UV rays really do to your skin, day after day. Read more...
Profile of a face at rest, natural side lighting, textured skin without retouching, neutral and serene expression.
Why You Can't Really "Erase" a Wrinkle
Erasing wrinkles, fighting them: the skin doesn't work the way this terminology suggests. What can be prevented, and what can truly be corrected. Read more...
A close-up of facial skin, soft, natural lighting, and a clear, unretouched texture that reveals the fine texture of mature skin.
The Skin Barrier Weakens with Age: What Really Protects It
The skin barrier weakens with age: skin that feels tight, sudden dryness. Understand this process before adding yet another product. Read more...
A photograph of a face taken in profile under natural light, showing clear skin texture, unretouched, with a neutral and calm expression.
Anti-Aging: Rethinking the Promise to Focus Only on What Works
Miracle creams, fast-acting ingredients: the anti-aging market is full of promises. What really works against the first signs of aging comes down to just a few simple steps. Read more...
Close-up photograph of facial skin, with slight, diffuse redness on the cheeks, in soft, neutral natural light.
Skin That Reacts to Everything: Understanding Chronic Inflammation Before Changing Your Routine
Redness that never goes away, products that suddenly cause a stinging sensation: reactive skin and chronic inflammation change the way you put together your skincare routine. Read more...
Close-up of glowing skin, natural light, no visible retouching.
Zone T, Zone U: What the Location of Your Pimples Really Reveals About Your Skin
Do pimples always appear in the same place—on the jawline or chin? The distinction between the T-zone and the U-zone sheds light on the hormonal causes of adult acne and the role of stress. Read more...
Natural skin tone, slight variations in pigmentation visible, daylight.
Brown spots, melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: Identify them correctly before treating them
Not all brown spots tell the same story. Some are the result of years of cumulative sun exposure, others appear within a few weeks after a hormonal surge, and still others leave a mark... Read more...
A macro close-up of soothed skin, bathed in soft, natural light.
Sensitive Skin: What Dermatology Really Knows About This Very Common Condition
"Sensitive skin" comes up in nearly half of all conversations about skincare—and yet, it is neither a medical diagnosis nor an allergy. It's a syndrome... Read more...
A macro close-up of skin with a clear texture, lit by natural side lighting.
Enlarged Pores: What They Really Are, and Why You Can't "Tighten" Them
"Tightening pores" is one of the most common claims in skincare—and one of the least accurate from an anatomical standpoint. A pore... Read more...
Clear skin in natural light, with visible texture and no retouching.
Blackheads, papules, pustules: Understanding the Different Types of Acne to Better Prevent Them
Not all pimples look the same, and more importantly, they don't all follow the same pattern. A blackhead, a red and painful pimple, a microcyst under the... Read more...
A close-up of skin with a natural texture, bathed in morning light, with no shine or visible retouching.
Dry Skin or Dehydrated Skin? Understanding the Real Cause of Dry Skin
Skin that feels tight in the shower, peels slightly around the sides of the nose, and looks dull despite a skincare routine you follow religiously—the instinct is almost always... Read more...
A profile shot of a face with relaxed features, natural lighting, and clear skin with no visible retouching.
Why Adult Acne Keeps Coming Back on the Chin and Jawline, and What Really Helps
Adult acne often reappears on the chin and jawline, following a hormone-related cycle. Understanding these hormone-related breakouts helps you better prepare for them. Read more...
A few seeds and a leaf placed next to a bottle of serum, against a light, minimalist background.
Bakuchiol: The Gentle Alternative to Retinol, Explained Simply
Bakuchiol is emerging as a gentle alternative to retinol for sensitive skin: its origins, tolerability, actual effectiveness, and what the science really says. Read more...
A close-up of a creamy texture gently spread across the back of a hand, with no packaging visible.
Peptides, exosomes, miracle ingredients: What the skin really takes away from skincare trends
Peptides, exosomes, bio-adaptive active ingredients: every year brings a new “miracle” ingredient. What science really says about them—and what the skin actually gets out of them. Read more...
A simple bottle of serum placed next to a water-like texture, with no visible label, against a neutral background.
Biomimicry: What This Term Really Means for Your Skin—Without the Jargon
"Biomimicry" is popping up everywhere in the cosmetics industry. What the term really means, how it benefits the skin, and how to tell it apart from marketing hype. Read more...
A minimalist bathroom shelf with just three bottles lined up, with no other products in sight.
Those Skincare Products We Never Use: What We Really Gain by Stopping Hoarding Them
A drawer full of skincare products I've never finished: what this hoarding really hides, and why consistency matters more than novelty, when it comes down to it. Read more...
A hand places a single bottle of skincare product on a minimalist bathroom shelf, with no other products visible nearby.
Less Is More: How Overuse of Cosmetics Really Affects the Skin
Recently, a term has emerged to describe something that many people experience without realizing it: cosmetic overload, or “skin overload.” The idea that skin... Read more...
Three simple bottles of skincare products placed side by side on a light-colored background, with no other products around them.
Skinimalism: Why a Three-Step Routine Is All You Need
Skinimalism isn't just a trend: it's the idea that a short, well-chosen routine is all your skin needs. Here's what dermatologists really have to say about it. Read more...
Hormonal Acne After Age 30: Understanding the Cycle to Treat It More Effectively
Acne after age 30 is often described as “hormonal”—but this term covers a wide range of different conditions depending on the individual. Understanding exactly what type of acne you have and what triggers it is essential to finding the right treatment. Why Acne Returns After Age 30 Hormonal fluctuations throughout a woman’s life—the menstrual cycle, pregnancy, postpartum, and perimenopause—influence sebum production. Androgens stimulate the sebaceous glands and can trigger acne. But it’s not just hormonal. Adult acne also often involves microbiome dysbiosis, inflammation... Read more...
Sensitive Skin: What It Really Means and How to Deal With It
Sensitive Skin: What It Really Means and How to Deal With It
About 60% of women and 40% of men describe themselves as having sensitive skin. And yet, in the vast majority of cases, “sensitive skin” is not a permanent genetic condition... Read more...
Skincare 2026: The 5 Trends Dermatologists Actually Endorse
Every year, the cosmetics industry announces breakthroughs. Some are based on solid scientific advances. Others are simply marketing spin on existing ideas. As a dermatologist who has been following the scientific literature for 10 years, here is my analysis of the five trends for 2026 that truly deserve your attention. 1. The skin microbiome: the most scientifically sound trend The skin microbiome became the dominant trend in dermatology in 2024–2025, and it’s gaining momentum in 2026. Unlike many cosmetic trends, this one is firmly rooted in research. Studies show... Read more...
Inclusive Skincare: Why Skin Biology Makes No Distinctions
In 2026, “diversity” is the most frequently used word in beauty communications. And yet, if you look at the clinical studies behind most premium skincare products, they were conducted on predominantly homogeneous panels. The promise of inclusivity is rarely reflected in the actual formulation. What Is the Same Across All Skin Types? The fundamental structure of the skin is the same regardless of skin tone: epidermis, dermis, hypodermis. The composition of the skin barrier (ceramides, lipids, proteins) is the same. The mechanisms of aging work the same way. The skin microbiome... Read more...
Beauty Biotechnology vs. Natural Beauty: The Debate the Industry Doesn't Want to Have
Natural beauty has dominated the cosmetics industry for 15 years with a simple promise: what comes from nature is better for you and for the planet. This promise is appealing. It is also, for the most part, scientifically false. Here’s an honest analysis—backed by data. The “natural = safe” myth The idea that natural ingredients are inherently safer than synthetic ones is one of the least scientifically justified misconceptions. Many natural ingredients are powerful allergens: essential oils are among the most common causes... Read more...
Minimalist Skincare Routine: The Science Behind "Less Is More"
Minimalism in skincare is presented as a lifestyle trend. But behind this trend lies a solid scientific reality that few brands explain honestly—because it runs counter to their direct commercial interests. What science says about layering: Each additional product creates two types of problems. First: the physicochemical interactions between active ingredients. Some combinations are incompatible (incompatible pH levels, chemical reactions) and mutually reduce each other’s effectiveness. Others cancel each other out functionally. Second: the saturation of absorption pathways. Your skin has a limited absorption capacity. Beyond a certain... Read more...
How to Adapt Your Skincare Routine to Seasonal Changes
Your skin isn’t the same in January as it is in July. Temperature, humidity, UV exposure, and indoor heating all measurably alter how your skin behaves. But does that mean you need to change your entire skincare routine four times a year? The scientific answer is more nuanced than you might think. What Actually Changes in Your Skin With the Seasons In winter: the cold and indoor heating (dry air) increase transepidermal water loss. Sebum production decreases, weakening the lipid barrier. The skin becomes drier, tighter, and more reactive. In summer: the... Read more...
Hyperpigmentation and Dark Spots: The Complete Guide to Reducing Them Without Irritating Your Skin
Hyperpigmentation—brown spots, melasma, post-acne scars—is one of the most common skin concerns after age 30, regardless of skin tone. And yet, it is one of the most poorly treated conditions—often with ingredients that are too harsh, which exacerbate inflammation and, consequently, pigmentation. The Different Types of Hyperpigmentation Sunspots (lentigines): caused by chronic UV exposure. Respond well to anti-pigmentation ingredients and strict SPF use. Melasma: hormonal hyperpigmentation, often triggered by pregnancy or birth control. More difficult to treat. SPF is absolutely non-negotiable. Post-inflammatory spots... Read more...
Skincare Routine for Men Over 30: Same Rules, Same Results
Men’s skin ages differently, but not better. It’s thicker, oilier, and generally doesn’t start to wrinkle until later—but once it does age, it ages quickly. And yet, 68% of men don’t have a defined skincare routine. The reason: the industry offers men either ineffective all-in-one products or complicated routines designed for women. Both are mistakes. Men’s skin biology: what’s different Men’s skin is, on average, 25% thicker, with higher collagen density and greater sebum production.... Read more...
Why Your Skin Feels Tight After Cleansing—and How to Fix It for Good
Why Your Skin Feels Tight After Cleansing—and How to Fix It for Good
How many times have you finished cleansing your face thinking, "It's clean"—only to find that your face felt tight, like a dried-out mask? This sensation is so common that many people... Read more...
Acne AND wrinkles: how to treat both at the same time without damaging your skin
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How to Build an Effective Minimalist Routine After 30
How to Build an Effective Minimalist Routine After 30
At age 30, your skin enters a new phase. This isn't a crisis—it's a predictable biological change. Collagen production slows down. Natural ceramides decrease.... Read more...
Vitamin C in Cosmetics: Everything You Need to Know to Choose the Right Product
Vitamin C in Cosmetics: Everything You Need to Know to Choose the Right Product
Vitamin C is the most sought-after antioxidant ingredient in cosmetics—and one of the most misused. There are many forms of vitamin C with varying levels of effectiveness,... Read more...