Which Product Not to Mix with Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid, a recognized dermatological active ingredient, is a staple in facial care for skin prone to imperfections and acne-like tendencies. This dicarboxylic acid is valued for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial properties, and its effectiveness in refining skin texture. However, its use requires precautions, especially regarding combinations with other products. Mixing azelaic acid with certain ingredients can reduce its effectiveness, irritate the skin, or cause side effects. So, which products should you avoid? Here's everything you need to know to optimize your azelaic acid skincare routine.

What is Azelaic Acid and Why Use It?

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid derived from cereals like barley, wheat, or rye. This powerful ingredient is often used in dermatological treatments for its many benefits:

• Blackhead Reduction: It unclogs sebaceous glands and prevents pore blockage.

• Anti-inflammatory Properties: It soothes redness and irritation, making it an ideal choice for sensitive skin.

• Antibacterial Action: Azelaic acid fights against the bacteria responsible for acne.

• Improved Skin Texture: By gently exfoliating dead skin cells, it contributes to clear and even-toned skin.

It is found in various concentrations, generally between 15 and 20%, in the form of creams, gels, or serums. Dermatologists recommend applying it morning and evening to the entire face, but it is crucial to avoid certain combinations to ensure optimal results.

Products to Avoid with Azelaic Acid

1. Other Potent Exfoliating Acids

Although azelaic acid is relatively gentle, it is still an exfoliant. Combining it with other acids like glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or lactic acid can lead to over-exfoliation. This risks drying out the skin, damaging the skin barrier, and causing irritation. If you use an acid like salicylic acid to target blackheads or enlarged pores, alternate application days rather than layering them.

2. Retinoids

Retinoids, such as retinol or tretinoin, are also exfoliants and boost cell renewal. When combined with azelaic acid, skin can become very reactive, leading to redness, flaking, and burning sensations. To avoid these issues, use retinoids in the evening and azelaic acid in the morning, or consult a dermatologist for personalized advice.

3. Vitamin C

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, but it can be unstable when mixed with other active ingredients. Using a Vitamin C product and an azelaic acid product at the same time can reduce the effectiveness of both and cause irritation. To enjoy the benefits of both ingredients, apply Vitamin C in the morning and azelaic acid in the evening.

4. Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl peroxide is a common ingredient for treating acne, but it can be too harsh when combined with azelaic acid. This combination risks drying out the skin and causing severe irritation. If you want to use both ingredients, apply them at different times of the day and follow up with a moisturizer to soothe the skin.

5. Highly Concentrated Essential Oils

Certain essential oils, such as tea tree or peppermint, can irritate the skin when used with azelaic acid. These ingredients, though natural, are powerful and should be used sparingly, especially on skin prone to redness or acne.

Best Practices for Using Azelaic Acid

To maximize the benefits of azelaic acid, it's important to adopt a suitable skincare routine:

1. Cleanse your skin with a gentle cleanser: Choose non-irritating cleansers that won't disrupt your skin's barrier.

2. Moisturize with a suitable cream: A non-comedogenic moisturizer helps maintain skin balance and prevent irritation.

3. Apply sun protection: Azelaic acid can increase skin's sensitivity to the sun. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning.

4. Follow application instructions: Use a small amount of azelaic acid (a pea-sized amount is enough) and spread it evenly over your entire face or targeted areas.

5. Combine with compatible ingredients: Active ingredients like zinc, thermal water, or hydrosols (e.g., witch hazel) are perfect for complementing your routine.

Why Avoid Layering Certain Products?

Skin has a limited capacity to absorb active ingredients, and layering incompatible ingredients can lead to side effects such as:

• Skin irritation: Redness, itching, burning sensations.

• Weakened skin barrier: Over-stimulation can disrupt natural sebum production, leading to dryness or a compromised, clear complexion.

• Reduced product effectiveness: Some active ingredients can cancel each other out when used together.

Alternatives and Solutions to Avoid Incompatibilities

If you want to include several active ingredients in your routine, there are simple solutions to avoid incompatibilities:

• Alternate usage days: For example, use a Vitamin C product on even days and an azelaic acid product on odd days.

• Separate applications throughout the day: Apply one ingredient in the morning and another in the evening.

• Choose products formulated to be used together: Some products combine several active ingredients in a balanced way without risk of irritation.

When to consult a dermatologist?

If you notice persistent redness, irritation, or worsening blemishes after introducing azelaic acid into your routine, consult a dermatologist. This professional can assess your skin and suggest a suitable routine. Additionally, if you are considering using more powerful treatments like retinoids or benzoyl peroxide, medical advice is essential.

Example skincare routine with azelaic acid

Here is a simple and effective routine for skin prone to acne or redness:

1. Morning:

   • Cleanse your skin with micellar water or a gentle gel.

   • Apply a soothing hydrosol, such as witch hazel.

   • Apply a treatment with azelaic acid.

   • Hydrate with a light moisturizer and apply sun protection.

2. Evening:

   • Remove makeup with a cleansing oil or micellar water.

   • Cleanse your skin with a gentle cleanser.

   • Apply a hydrating serum or a cream containing zinc.

Conclusion

Azelaic acid is an effective ingredient for treating skin prone to blemishes, but its use requires some precautions. Avoid combining it with strong acids, retinoids, or harsh products to maintain your skin's health. By following a suitable routine and respecting application advice, you can fully enjoy the benefits of azelaic acid and achieve clear and balanced skin. Do not hesitate to seek advice from a dermatologist to personalize your routine and maximize results.