When should you not use retinol?

Retinol is one of the leading ingredients in dermatology, renowned for its many benefits, particularly in treating acne and combating signs of aging. This vitamin A derivative stimulates cell renewal and improves skin texture. However, despite its undeniable virtues, there are situations where using retinol can be contraindicated, or even dangerous. Knowing these circumstances is crucial to avoid side effects or complications.

During pregnancy and breastfeeding

One of the main contraindications for using retinol concerns pregnant or breastfeeding women. Vitamin A derivatives, including retinol and retinoic acid, can cause birth defects when used during pregnancy. All-trans retinoic acid, used by prescription for severe conditions like nodular acne, is particularly dangerous. Even milder forms, such as retinyl palmitate, should be avoided as a precaution. For pregnant women looking to treat signs of aging or dark spots, gentler alternatives like vitamin C or fruit acids (AHAs) are recommended.

Sensitive or reactive skin

Sensitive skin often reacts poorly to retinol. This powerful active ingredient can cause redness, irritation, and even flaking, which worsens the condition of reactive skin. Symptoms of intolerance include burning sensations, extreme dryness, and excessive flaking. To reduce these risks, it's advisable to start with a less potent type of retinoid, such as retinol esters, to gradually accustom the skin. It's also recommended to use retinol in low concentrations and space out applications.

Inflammatory skin conditions

People suffering from conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, or rosacea should avoid using retinol. This ingredient can worsen existing inflammation, disrupting the skin's barrier function. Retinol accelerates cell renewal, which can exacerbate redness and flaking in sensitive skin. Furthermore, inflammatory skin conditions often require gentle treatments to prevent any worsening.