What are the benefits of salicylic acid?

Salicylic acid is one of the most popular cosmetic ingredients in skincare. It is particularly valued for its exfoliating action, anti-inflammatory properties, and ability to unclog pores. Although primarily associated with acne treatments, it actually offers a much wider range of benefits, making it an ally for improving skin texture, clarity, and overall skin health.

In this article, we will detail what salicylic acid is, how it works on the skin, its main benefits, as well as its uses and precautions.

1. What is Salicylic Acid?

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), meaning it's an oil-soluble acid. Unlike AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) like glycolic acid, which are water-soluble and primarily work on the skin's surface, BHAs penetrate deep into the pores due to their affinity with sebum.

Historically, salicylic acid was extracted from willow bark (Salix alba). Today, it is often synthesized in a laboratory to ensure its purity and stability. It is used not only in cosmetics but also in the medical field, particularly for treating warts or calluses.

2. How Does Salicylic Acid Work?

The action of salicylic acid is based on several complementary mechanisms:

  • Chemical Exfoliation: It dissolves the bonds between dead cells on the skin's surface, promoting their removal.

  • Pore Penetration: Thanks to its lipid solubility, it penetrates deeply to cleanse excess sebum and impurities.

  • Keratolytic Properties: It thins the outermost layer of skin and improves cell renewal.

  • Anti-inflammatory Effect: It soothes redness and reduces irritation associated with blemishes.

This comprehensive mode of action explains why salicylic acid is recommended for oily, acne-prone skin, or skin prone to blackheads.

3. Main Benefits of Salicylic Acid

a) Fights Acne

One of the major benefits of salicylic acid is its ability to prevent and reduce acne. By unclogging pores and reducing inflammation, it limits the formation of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads) and alleviates existing pimples.

 

b) Reduction of Blackheads and Whiteheads

Blackheads are caused by the oxidation of sebum and dead skin cells accumulated in the pores. Thanks to its deep penetration, salicylic acid dissolves these blockages and prevents their reappearance.

c) Gentle and Even Exfoliation

Unlike mechanical scrubs which can be abrasive, salicylic acid offers a more even and gentle chemical exfoliation, ideal even for sensitive skin, provided the correct concentration is used.

d) Improved Skin Texture

By removing dead cells and stimulating cell renewal, salicylic acid helps to smooth skin texture, reduce irregularities, and give a brighter complexion.

e) Anti-inflammatory Action

Its anti-inflammatory properties make it an excellent ingredient for soothing irritated skin or skin prone to redness. This makes it useful not only against acne but also in some cases of mild rosacea.

f) Preventing ingrown hairs

By exfoliating the skin's surface and clearing hair follicles, salicylic acid reduces the risk of ingrown hairs, especially after waxing or shaving.

4. Forms and Uses of Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is found in many cosmetic products, with concentrations typically ranging from 0.5% to 2% for daily use, and up to 10% or more in certain specific treatments prescribed by a dermatologist.

Common Products:

  • Facial cleansers: for daily use to keep pores clear.

  • Toners: to refine skin texture after cleansing.

  • Targeted serums and gels: to treat blemishes locally.

  • Purifying masks: for a deep cleansing action once or twice a week.

5. Precautions and Side Effects

While salicylic acid is effective, it should be used with caution:

  • Overuse: Too high a concentration or too frequent use can cause dryness, redness, or excessive peeling.

  • Photosensitivity: Even though the risk is lower than with other acids, it is recommended to apply sunscreen in the morning.

  • Contraindications: Avoid use if you are allergic to aspirin (a derivative of salicylic acid) or if you are pregnant, without medical advice.

6. Incorporating Salicylic Acid into Your Routine

To benefit from its effects without irritating your skin:

  1. Start gently: 2 to 3 times a week, then increase frequency based on your skin's tolerance.

  2. Combine with good hydration: Use a moisturizer to counteract any drying effects.

  3. Combine smartly: Avoid combining it directly with other powerful exfoliating ingredients (AHAs, retinol) initially.

7. In Summary

Salicylic acid is a versatile ingredient that works on the surface and deep within the skin, offering an effective solution for:

  • Reducing acne and blackheads

  • Improving skin texture and radiance

  • Limiting inflammation and ingrown hairs

When used correctly, it becomes a major asset for maintaining clear, smooth, and radiant skin.

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