What is acetyl tetrapeptide and what are its benefits?

Acetyl tetrapeptide-3 is a biomimetic peptide often used as a cosmetic ingredient in various skincare products, especially anti-aging creams and serums. Acetyl tetrapeptide-3 is sometimes referred to as "Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7" or "Pal-GHK" in certain formulations.

Peptides play a role in cell communication and help stimulate collagen and elastin production, promote skin firmness, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines on the face and around the eyes.

In particular, acetyl tetrapeptide-3 is often associated with anti-inflammatory properties and the modulation of the skin's immune responses. It helps reduce inflammation, which contributes to improving skin appearance by reducing redness and promoting a more even skin tone.

What causes wrinkles?

Wrinkles are caused by a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors affecting the epidermis and dermis. Understanding these factors is key to addressing them.

• Natural aging process

The natural aging of skin is the main factor contributing to wrinkles. Over time, the production of collagen and elastin, essential proteins for maintaining skin's firmness and elasticity, decreases. Skin also loses its ability to retain moisture, leading to increased dryness. These internal changes create an environment where wrinkles can easily form.

• Sun exposure

Excessive sun exposure is one of the most significant external factors leading to premature wrinkle formation. The sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays damage collagen and elastin fibers, thus accelerating the skin's aging process. It is crucial to use an effective SPF sunscreen and avoid prolonged sun exposure to prevent UV damage.

• Smoking

Smoking is a habit that significantly contributes to wrinkle formation. Chemicals in tobacco smoke restrict blood flow, reduce oxygen supply, and damage the skin's collagen and elastin. Smokers tend to develop premature wrinkles, especially around the mouth.

• Poor lifestyle habits

An unbalanced diet can also play a role in the appearance of wrinkles. Deficiencies in vitamins, especially vitamins A, C, and E, as well as minerals like zinc, can affect skin health. Insufficient intake of antioxidants, which help fight free radicals, can promote premature skin aging.

To avoid a vitamin A deficiency, consume foods rich in retinol. Vitamin A is found as retinol in foods like liver, eggs, fish, and dairy products. Also, incorporate foods with Provitamin A: vegetables and fruits rich in beta-carotene, a precursor to vitamin A, include carrots, sweet potatoes, spinach, melons, and mangoes.

To avoid a vitamin C deficiency, include citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, grapefruits, as well as strawberries and kiwis in your diet. Eat fresh vegetables: vegetables such as red bell peppers, broccoli, spinach, and tomatoes are excellent sources of vitamin C.

To avoid a vitamin E deficiency, choose vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, and olive oil. Eat nuts and grains, as well as foods rich in antioxidants.

• Dehydration

Adequate hydration is crucial for maintaining skin health. Dehydration can make skin dry, dull, and more prone to wrinkles. It is essential to drink enough water throughout the day and use moisturizers to maintain optimal skin hydration.

• Repetitive facial expressions

Repetitive facial movements, such as squinting, frowning, or smiling, can contribute to the formation of expression lines. Over time, these movements create permanent creases in the skin.

• Genetics

Genetics also play a role in the predisposition to wrinkles. Some individuals have a genetic tendency to produce less collagen or have thinner skin, which can accelerate the wrinkle formation process.

 

How do tetrapeptides affect wrinkles?

Tetrapeptides are compounds containing four amino acids. When used in anti-aging skincare products, they can work in various ways to help reduce the appearance of wrinkles. The mechanisms vary depending on the type of tetrapeptide, but here are some general ways they can act:

• Collagen stimulation: Some tetrapeptides are known to stimulate collagen production in the skin. Collagen is a crucial structural protein that maintains skin's firmness and elasticity. By stimulating collagen synthesis, tetrapeptides strengthen the skin's structure and leave it looking plump.
• Reduction of inflammation: They possess anti-inflammatory properties that help combat premature aging, particularly that caused by chronic inflammation.
• Antioxidant action: They help neutralize free radicals, which are unstable molecules produced by factors like sun exposure and pollution that can damage skin cells. By protecting the skin from free radical damage, tetrapeptides can help prevent premature skin aging.
• Improved hydration: Some tetrapeptides can play a role in keeping skin hydrated. Adequate hydration is essential for maintaining skin suppleness and reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines caused by skin laxity.
• Effect on neurotransmitters: Some tetrapeptides can influence the neurotransmitters that cause muscle contractions. By adjusting these signals, they can help reduce expression lines, which are often caused by repetitive facial muscle movements.

 

 

Application of 2.5% tetrapeptide 4 for 28 days morning and evening on mature skin

 

What other ingredients are used as anti-wrinkle active ingredients?

There are many other ingredients that can be used as anti-wrinkle active ingredients.

• Retinol (Vitamin A): As mentioned earlier, it's very beneficial to include retinol in your diet, and the same applies to your beauty routine! Retinol is often considered one of the most effective anti-aging ingredients. It boosts collagen production, promotes cell renewal, and can help reduce wrinkles.

• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): AHAs, like glycolic and lactic acid, exfoliate the skin by removing dead surface cells. This promotes cell renewal, improves skin texture, and can reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

• Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): Salicylic acid is a BHA commonly used to exfoliate the skin, unclog pores, clear up blemishes, and promote cell regeneration from the first signs of aging. It can be beneficial for skin prone to imperfections when used in an exfoliant and for wrinkles when used in a day cream.

• Vitamin C: By protecting the skin against free radicals, it stimulates collagen production and can lighten dark spots.

• Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid is a powerful moisturizer that can attract and hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, helping to hydrate the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

• Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone): Like Vitamin C, this natural antioxidant can help reduce the signs of skin aging by protecting the skin from damage caused by free radicals.

• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties and can help strengthen the skin's barrier, thereby improving skin texture and reducing wrinkles and redness.

• Ceramides: Ceramides are lipids that strengthen the skin's barrier, improving moisture retention and reducing dryness, which can lessen the appearance of wrinkles.

 

Sources

1. Walker K, Basehore BM, Goyal A, Zito PM. Hyaluronic Acid. 2023 Jul 3. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2023 Jan–. PMID: 29494047.

2. Bukhari SNA, Roswandi NL, Waqas M, Habib H, Hussain F, Khan S, Sohail M, Ramli NA, Thu HE, Hussain Z. Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomedicine: A review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects. Int J Biol Macromol. 2018 Dec;120(Pt B):1682-1695. doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2018.09.188. Epub 2018 Oct 1. PMID: 30287361.