Probiotics and Prebiotics in Skincare: Scientific Revolution or Fleeting Trend?

The microbiome has been the hottest buzzword in dermatology since 2023—and for good reason. Research on the skin microbiome has seen a major scientific breakthrough over the past five years, and its findings are fundamentally changing the way we think about skincare.

The skin microbiome: what exactly is it?

Your skin is home to billions of microorganisms—bacteria, fungi, and viruses—that form a complex ecosystem known as the skin microbiome. Contrary to popular belief, these microorganisms are not invaders to be eliminated; they are an essential part of the skin’s natural defense system.

A balanced microbiome helps maintain optimal skin pH, produces natural antimicrobial substances, regulates inflammation, and strengthens the skin barrier. Conversely, an imbalance in the microbiome—known as dysbiosis—is frequently associated with conditions such as acne, eczema, or rosacea.

The Difference Between Probiotics and Prebiotics in Cosmetics

In cosmetics, probiotics refer to microorganisms or their derivatives—such as lysates or extracts—that can positively influence the skin microbiome. Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, found in the VIBRE Cleanser, is one of the most extensively studied probiotic derivatives in the cosmetic literature.

Prebiotics, on the other hand, serve as nutrients for the good bacteria already present on the skin. Ingredients such as inulin and alpha-glucan oligosaccharide thus promote the growth of beneficial bacteria, particularly lactobacilli.

What clinical science says

Several randomized controlled clinical trials have observed a significant reduction in acne-related blemishes with probiotic formulations compared to placebos. The mechanisms identified include, in particular, a decrease in C. acnes bacteria, a reduction in local inflammation, and a strengthening of the skin barrier.

Why Most Probiotic Treatments Don't Work

Many so-called “probiotic” products contain insufficient amounts of active ingredients or use forms that are not stable in the formulation. To be truly effective, a probiotic active ingredient must be stable, present in an appropriate concentration, and formulated in an environment with a compatible pH. This is precisely what we have optimized in our Cleanser.

The Microbiome and Adult Acne: The Key Link

Adult acne—particularly among people aged 25 to 45—is often linked to an imbalance in the skin’s microbiome caused by years of using harsh cleansers or topical antibiotics. In many cases, restoring the balance of the skin’s microbiome proves more effective in the long run than stripping the skin with overly potent ingredients.