What are the benefits of niacinamide for the skin?
What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin, also known as nicotinamide or vitamin B3.
It plays a crucial role in many essential biological functions for the human body. Niacinamide is an ingredient found in many foods such as meat, fish, nuts, seeds, and whole grains, but it can also be synthesized by the body from tryptophan, an amino acid.
The benefits of niacinamide for the skin
Strengthens the skin barrier
Niacinamide is known to strengthen the skin barrier, which helps protect the skin from external aggressors like pollution and UV rays.
Studies suggest that niacinamide can positively influence keratinocytes by promoting their differentiation and increasing ceramide levels in the skin.
As they differentiate, keratinocytes synthesize lipids and proteins that help form a protective barrier against external aggressors such as bacteria, irritating substances, and moisture loss.
Niacinamide's ability to increase ceramides can strengthen the skin barrier, improve skin hydration, and reduce transepidermal water loss, contributing to healthier, more resilient skin.
Antioxidant action
As a derivative of vitamin B3, niacinamide acts as an antioxidant by neutralizing free radicals present in the skin. Free radicals are unstable molecules that can damage skin cells and accelerate the skin aging process. By neutralizing these free radicals, niacinamide helps protect the skin against damage caused by environmental factors such as the sun's UV rays, pollution, and oxidative stress.
Regulates sebum production
For skin prone to excess sebum, niacinamide can help regulate sebum production, thereby reducing the appearance of enlarged pores and minimizing issues with shine and acne. This regulation of sebum production helps maintain optimal skin balance, which is essential for healthy, radiant skin.
Reduces dark spots
Niacinamide is also effective in reducing dark spots and hyperpigmentation, helping to even out skin tone and lighten dark areas of the skin. This brightening effect helps improve the overall appearance of the skin and reveal a more luminous and even complexion.
Anti-inflammatory
Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, niacinamide can soothe skin irritations, reduce redness, and calm sensitive or reactive skin. This makes it an ideal ingredient for those suffering from inflammatory conditions like eczema or rosacea.
Boosts collagen production
Niacinamide is also known to stimulate collagen production in the skin, which helps maintain its firmness and elasticity. By boosting collagen production, this ingredient helps prevent skin sagging and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
How to use niacinamide in your skincare routine?
To fully enjoy the benefits of niacinamide, it's recommended to incorporate it into your daily skincare routine. Here's how you can use niacinamide in your morning and evening routine:
In the morning: after cleansing your face, apply a day cream containing niacinamide. Make sure to choose a lightweight formula that suits your skin type.
Follow with a moisturizer and SPF sunscreen to protect your skin from harmful UV rays.
In the evening: after cleansing your face, apply a cream or serum containing niacinamide. You can also use products that combine niacinamide with other beneficial skin ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid or peptides.
Finish with a moisturizer to lock in hydration and promote overnight skin regeneration.
What ingredients to use with niacinamide?
Niacinamide can be used in combination with other ingredients commonly found in skincare products to optimize its effects.
Glycolic acid + niacinamide
Glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells and reveal a smoother, brighter complexion. When combined with niacinamide, glycolic acid can be less irritating to the skin, thanks to niacinamide's soothing properties. This combination can be beneficial for all skin types, especially skin prone to dryness or sensitivity.
Stabilized Vitamin C + niacinamide
The synergistic combination of vitamin C and niacinamide in skincare offers enhanced antioxidant protection, reduced hyperpigmentation and inflammation, stimulated collagen production for firmer, more elastic skin, and strengthened skin barrier for improved hydration and protection against external aggressors.
Biologically, they work differently to prevent the appearance of dark spots: vitamin C inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme necessary for melanin production, while niacinamide blocks the transfer of pigments into skin cells.
Regarding application, there is no strict rule for the order in which these two ingredients should be applied to your skin.
Hyaluronic acid + niacinamide
The combination of hyaluronic acid and niacinamide in skincare provides deep and lasting hydration thanks to hyaluronic acid's humectant properties, while niacinamide helps strengthen the skin barrier, reduce hyperpigmentation and inflammation, and stimulate collagen production for firmer, brighter, and more resilient skin.
Salicylic acid + niacinamide
Niacinamide combined with salicylic acid in a skincare product helps strengthen the permeability of the hydrolipidic film, thereby reducing transepidermal water loss, which is skin dehydration.
What product should not be mixed with niacinamide?
Niacinamide is generally compatible with most other skincare ingredients, but for sensitive skin, it is recommended to avoid combining it with products containing high concentrations of exfoliating acids, such as glycolic acid or lactic acid.
Sources
WAN Y. & al. Nicotinamide attenuates aquaporin 3 overexpression induced by retinoic acid through inhibition of EGFR/ERK in cultured human skin keratinocytes. International Journal of Molecular Medicine (2008).
GARG K.V. & al. Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available ? Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery (2013).
Wohlrab J, Kreft D. Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):311-5. doi: 10.1159/000359974. Epub 2014 Jun 27. PMID: 24993939.