What is Mature Skin and How Do You Care for It?

Skin aging is a natural process that affects everyone. However, understanding the specific needs of mature skin and adopting a suitable skincare routine can make all the difference in preserving the firmness, elasticity, and vitality of your face contour and neck.

What is mature skin?

Mature skin isn't defined by a specific age, but by certain skin characteristics. Here are some of them.

LOSS OF FIRMNESS AND SKIN SAGGING

The loss of firmness associated with aging and mature skin results from several complex intrinsic and extrinsic factors interacting. Understanding these factors is key to developing an effective skincare routine.

• Decreased production of collagen and elastin: Collagen and elastin are essential structural proteins that give skin its firmness and elasticity. As we age, the natural production of these proteins decreases, leading to a weakening of the skin's structural support.
• Slower cell regeneration: Cell regeneration is the process by which skin renews itself by replacing dead cells with new ones. Over time, this process slows down, leading to a buildup of dead cells that can make skin look dull and contribute to a loss of firmness.
• Loss of subcutaneous fat: The reduction of subcutaneous fat, a natural characteristic of aging, can also contribute to a loss of firmness. This fat layer plays a role in maintaining the skin's structure and fullness.
• Genetic factors: Genetics play a role in how skin ages. Some individuals may be genetically predisposed to lower collagen production or weaker elastic fibers, which can affect their skin's firmness.
• Exposure to external aggressors: External aggressors like sun exposure, pollution, and smoking contribute to the formation of free radicals. These free radicals can damage collagen, thereby accelerating the skin aging process.
• Reduced hormone levels: Decreases in hormone levels, especially during the aging process or hormonal changes like menopause, can lead to a significant reduction in collagen production and elastin in the skin. Sex hormones, such as estrogen, play a crucial role in maintaining skin health by stimulating the synthesis of these structural proteins. With declining hormone levels, skin can lose its elasticity, become thinner, and develop wrinkles. Collagen ensures skin's firmness and resilience, while elastin contributes to its suppleness. The reduction of these proteins can therefore lead to skin that is more prone to signs of aging, such as loss of firmness and the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

AGE SPOTS

Age spots, also known as solar lentigines or senile lentigines, are pigment spots that typically appear on sun-exposed skin and are signs of aging. They are primarily caused by cumulative exposure to the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays over time. Here are some factors that contribute to the appearance of age spots:

• Sun exposure: Prolonged and repeated sun exposure is the main cause of age spots. UV rays stimulate melanin production in the skin, leading to the formation of dark spots.
• Skin aging: Age spots become more common with age, as the skin's ability to regenerate decreases and the accumulation of sun damage becomes more apparent.
• Genetics: Genetic predisposition can play a role in the likelihood of developing age spots. Some individuals are more prone to developing these spots due to hereditary factors.
• Hormones: Hormonal changes, such as those occurring during pregnancy, can lead to increased skin pigmentation, thus contributing to the appearance of age spots.
• Smoking: Some researchers suggest that smoking may be associated with an increased risk of developing age spots.

How to care for mature skin?

To care for mature skin, it's essential to deeply hydrate the skin, exfoliate it to stimulate cell renewal, and apply a mask at least once a week.

HOW TO PLUMP MATURE SKIN?

• Use hyaluronic acid: A powerful hydrating ingredient suitable for all skin types that retains water, promotes skin suppleness, and gives a plumper appearance.
• Glycerin is a hydrating agent that helps maintain skin moisture, thereby contributing to its firmness.

HOW TO REDUCE WRINKLES AND WHICH INGREDIENTS TO USE?

• Retinol: is a form of vitamin A that works on the skin by stimulating cell renewal, speeding up exfoliation, and promoting collagen production. These actions help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin texture, regulate pigmentation, and strengthen its structure. It also stimulates the production of new blood vessels in the skin, which improves skin tone. While retinol is effective in combating signs of aging, it can also cause initial skin sensitivity, requiring a gradual introduction into your skincare routine. Furthermore, it takes three to six months of regular use before improvements in wrinkles are visible, with the best results appearing after six to twelve months. Among retinoids, tretinoin is probably the most potent and certainly the most widely studied retinoid for treating skin aging caused by the sun.
• Peptides: are chains of amino acids that can stimulate collagen production and help reduce the appearance of wrinkles. In a study published in 2020 in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences, researchers examined the effects of peptides on premature aging. Researchers asked 22 individuals aged 40 or older to use anti-aging skincare products, including serums concentrated with peptides, on their face and neck. After two weeks, the peptides helped reduce the appearance of skin aging in the participants. Some peptides even have a mild Botox-like effect, relaxing muscles and treating fine lines.
• Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs): also known as fruit acids, are non-organic acids that have been used in the treatment of skin conditions for about 40 years. They are among the most widely used and studied anti-aging skincare compounds. Clinical trials have demonstrated the effectiveness of these ingredients in reversing the effects of photo-aging and improving wrinkles, skin elasticity, tone, and hydration.
• AHAs work on both the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin. When applied to the skin, AHAs stimulate the exfoliation of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum. This leads to the removal of dull, rough skin cells and promotes cell renewal. Initially used for treating hyperkeratosis and other skin conditions affecting subcutaneous renewal, AHAs have been shown to promote softer, smoother skin, reduce wrinkles, lighten age spots, and minimize blemishes. AHAs also improve the subcutaneous barrier function, increase the proliferation and thickness of the epidermis, and restore hydration by boosting hyaluronic acid. Well-known benefits of AHAs include exfoliation, hydration, reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, collagen synthesis, skin firming, and brightening. Glycolic acid is the smallest and most commonly used AHA compound.
• Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid, are very similar to AHAs, with the exception of their solubility. Their structure and oil-solubility allow them to quickly penetrate the skin through the sebaceous follicles, making them suitable for individuals with oily skin and open comedones. In addition to demonstrating the anti-inflammatory effect of BHAs, their irritating effect on the skin has also been shown to be less than that of AHAs. Beta-hydroxy acid in skincare products is most effective at a concentration of 1 to 2%.

HOW TO GET RID OF AGE SPOTS?

• Vitamin C, by acting as a powerful antioxidant, neutralizes free radicals, protecting the skin from oxidative damage and premature aging. It stimulates collagen production, helping to reduce wrinkles and maintain skin firmness, while inhibiting melanin production to diminish the appearance of dark spots and even out skin tone. Additionally, vitamin C offers extra protection against UV damage, reduces skin inflammation, and improves overall texture.
• Kojic acid: works on the skin by inhibiting melanin production, the pigment responsible for skin color. By blocking a key enzyme involved in melanin synthesis, kojic acid helps reduce pigment spots, hyperpigmentation, and brightens the complexion. Often used in skincare products, this brightening agent offers an alternative for treating pigmentation issues, although its effectiveness can vary from person to person. Regular use and combination with other suitable ingredients can optimize results and help achieve more even and radiant skin.
• Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic and lactic acid, can exfoliate the skin, promote cell renewal, and reduce pigment spots to combat dull skin.
• Hydroquinone: This ingredient works on the skin by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, which is essential for the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. By blocking melanin synthesis, hydroquinone helps reduce pigment spots, hyperpigmentation, and brightens the complexion in a targeted way. This brightening agent is often used in skincare products to treat pigmentation issues, although its use requires medical supervision and consultation due to possible side effects and safety concerns.

Sources

Do retinoids really reduce wrinkles? Harvard Health Publishing

Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-48. doi: 10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327. PMID: 18046911; PMCID: PMC2699641.

Jeong S, Yoon S, Kim S, et al. Anti-wrinkle benefits of peptides complex stimulating skin basement membrane proteins expression. Int J Mol Sci. 2019;21(1):73. doi:10.3390/ijms21010073

Moghimipour E. Hydroxy Acids, the Most Widely Used Anti-aging Agents. Jundishapur J Nat Pharm Prod. 2012 Winter;7(1):9-10. Epub 2012 Jan 4. PMID: 24624144; PMCID: PMC3941867.