Mandelic Acid: Benefits for Your Skin

In the dynamic world of skincare, AHA and BHA fruit acids have become very popular in cosmetic products. 

Among them, mandelic acid stands out as a versatile and effective option for a variety of skin concerns. In this article, we will explore the benefits of mandelic acid and its many properties.

Mandelic Acid: What is it?

Mandelic acid, also known as mandelic acid in English, belongs to the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family.

AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, are popular cosmetic ingredients widely used for their exfoliating and skin-rejuvenating properties. They are derived from fruits and other natural sources and are known for their ability to remove dead skin cells, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, improve skin texture, and promote cell renewal.

The most commonly used AHAs in cosmetics include glycolic acid (derived from sugarcane), lactic acid (derived from milk), mandelic acid (derived from bitter almonds), citric acid (derived from citrus fruits), and tartaric acid (derived from grapes).

Mandelic acid is obtained through extraction or synthesis from these bitter almonds. After various purification and chemical transformation processes, it is produced as a crystalline powder, which is then used in a variety of skincare products for its gentle exfoliating properties and other skin benefits.

The Benefits of Mandelic Acid

• Gentle exfoliation

Mandelic acid exfoliates the skin by removing dead cells from the surface, which helps reveal smoother and more radiant skin. Unlike other fruit acids like glycolic acid, mandelic acid is gentler, making it suitable even for sensitive skin.

• Reduction of Enlarged Pores

Mandelic acid works on enlarged pores by gently exfoliating the skin to remove dead cells and impurities that clog the pores. By promoting cell renewal, it helps tighten pores and reduce their appearance, while regulating sebum production to maintain skin balance.

• Anti-inflammatory Properties

Mandelic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it an ideal choice for those struggling with breakouts and inflammation. It can help calm the skin and reduce redness associated with acne and other inflammatory skin conditions.

• Suitable for the Eye Contour Area

Unlike some other AHAs that can be too potent for the delicate eye contour area, mandelic acid is gentle yet effective, making it an excellent choice for targeting fine lines, dark circles, and puffiness in this sensitive region.

• Suitable for Sensitive Skin

Due to its gentle nature, mandelic acid is generally well-tolerated even by sensitive skin. It offers the benefits of exfoliation without causing excessive irritation, making it suitable for regular use.

• Skin Radiance

By removing dead skin cells and stimulating cell renewal, mandelic acid helps reveal a brighter and more even complexion. It can also help reduce spots by gently exfoliating the skin's surface layer, which helps remove pigmented cells and melanin pigments responsible for dark spots.

• Wrinkle Reduction

Mandelic acid plays a crucial role in fighting the signs of aging, particularly by reducing wrinkles and restoring the elasticity of the epidermis. By promoting controlled exfoliation, it removes damaged and aging epidermal cells, replacing them with younger, firmer cells, thus stimulating skin renewal and visibly reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

Studies also reveal that chemical exfoliants, such as mandelic acid, activate dermal fibroblasts to stimulate the production of new essential skin components such as collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, although the exact mechanism remains unknown.

Furthermore, other research highlights that mandelic acid regulates sebum production, thus helping to maintain skin hydration, especially when it is dry or damaged. Finally, one study demonstrates that a topical treatment based on mandelic acid resulted in a significant 23% improvement in skin firmness and a 25% increase in the elasticity of the skin of the lower eyelids after only four weeks of use. These results conclude that mandelic acid represents an effective option for improving overall skin quality.

How to Use Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid can be found in a variety of skincare products, including cleansing gels, toners, serums, and peels. Here are some tips for incorporating it into your skincare routine:

Mandelic Acid Cleanser: Use a cleanser containing mandelic acid to deeply cleanse your skin and remove impurities and dead skin cells from the surface.

Serum or Cream: Choose a serum or creams containing mandelic acid for targeted application. Apply it after cleansing on clean skin and before your moisturizer for optimal results.

Mandelic Acid Peel: For a more intense exfoliation, consider using a mandelic acid peel once a week. Follow the product instructions to avoid any irritation.

Sun Protection: As with any exfoliating product, it is essential to protect your skin from sun damage by using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an appropriate SPF.

Difference between mandelic acid and salicylic acid

Salicylic acid and mandelic acid are two types of acids used in skincare products for their ability to exfoliate the skin. Although they have similar mechanisms of action, there are some key differences.

• Mechanism of action

Salicylic acid is a lipophilic beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). It has the ability to penetrate deep into the skin's pores, where it works to dissolve oils and dead skin cells. This helps to unclog pores and prevent the appearance of blackheads, acne, and breakouts.

Mandelic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds. It works by exfoliating the skin's surface layer, helping to remove dead skin cells and stimulate cell renewal. However, it is less penetrating than salicylic acid.

• Effectiveness

Salicylic acid is particularly effective for treating skin imperfections and acne-prone skin. By penetrating deep into the pores, it can help remove impurities and prevent clogged hair follicles.

Mandelic acid is also effective for exfoliating the skin and improving its radiance. Using mandelic acid can help reduce the appearance of enlarged pores, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines, while providing gentle and regular exfoliation.

• Skin tolerance

Due to its ability to penetrate deep into the pores, salicylic acid can sometimes cause irritation in people with sensitive or reactive skin. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase it, while monitoring for any skin reactions.

Mandelic acid is generally better tolerated by sensitive skin due to its gentle nature. However, as with any exfoliating product, it is important to perform a patch test before widespread use to ensure it is suitable for your skin.

Conclusion

Mandelic acid offers many benefits for the skin, from gentle exfoliation to reducing enlarged pores and its anti-inflammatory properties. Whether you have sensitive skin, breakout-prone skin, or are simply looking to improve your complexion's radiance, mandelic acid can be a valuable addition to your skincare routine. Always remember to perform a patch test before introducing new products into your routine, and consult a dermatologist if you have specific concerns about your skin.