How to get rid of closed comedones?

Closed comedones, also known as "microcysts," are one of the most common forms of skin imperfections. Unlike blackheads (open comedones), they appear as small white or flesh-colored bumps, often located on the forehead, cheeks, or chin. Often discreet but persistent, they can give the skin a bumpy texture and resist conventional treatments. So, how can you effectively get rid of closed comedones?

1. What is a Closed Comedone?

A closed comedone results from the obstruction of a hair follicle by excess sebum, dead skin cells, and sometimes bacteria. The difference from an open comedone (blackhead) is that the pore remains closed at the skin's surface. Since the content is not oxidized by air, it maintains a white or translucent appearance.

These lesions belong to the family of retentional acne and often represent the first stage before inflammation (a red bump or pustule).

2. Main Causes of Closed Comedones

  • Excess sebum due to oily or combination skin.

  • Accumulation of dead skin cells due to slowed cell renewal.

  • Comedogenic cosmetic products (overly rich creams, occlusive makeup).

  • Hormonal changes (puberty, menstrual cycle, pregnancy).

  • Poor lifestyle habits: diet rich in sugars, stress, lack of sleep.

  • Environmental factors: pollution, humidity, excessive heat.

3. Common mistakes to avoid

When dealing with closed comedones, many people make mistakes that worsen the problem:

  • Squeezing or picking microcysts: this often leads to inflammation, scarring, or hyperpigmentation.

  • Using abrasive scrubs: excessive mechanical exfoliation can irritate the skin and stimulate sebum production.

  • Using overly rich products or products unsuitable for your skin type.

  • Using too many products without a coherent routine, which can unbalance the skin's barrier.

4. Effective solutions for closed comedones

a. Appropriate cleansing

A gentle cleanser without sulfates, suitable for combination or oily skin, helps reduce excess sebum without irritating the skin. Ideally, use a gel or foam with a physiological pH.

b. Chemical exfoliation

Chemical exfoliation is the most effective method for treating closed comedones:

  • Salicylic acid (BHA): oil-soluble, it penetrates pores and helps dissolve sebum.

  • Fruit acids (AHA) like glycolic acid: promote cell renewal.

  • Lactic acid: gentler, suitable for sensitive skin.

Regular use (1 to 3 times a week depending on tolerance) smooths the skin and prevents the formation of new comedones.

c. Topical retinoids

Vitamin A derivatives (such as adapalene or cosmetic retinol) regulate cell renewal, unclog pores, and prevent microcyst formation. They are one of the benchmark treatments in dermatology.

d. Non-comedogenic moisturizers

Even oily skin needs hydration. It is essential to choose a light moisturizer based on non-comedogenic ingredients (hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, aloe vera gel).

e. Complementary active ingredients

  • Niacinamide: regulates sebum production and soothes the skin.

  • Sulfur: purifies and cleanses pores.

  • Benzoyl Peroxide: especially useful if closed comedones develop into inflammatory pimples.

5. Professional Treatments

When closed comedones are numerous or stubborn, dermatological office solutions can be considered:

  • Dermatological cleansing or professional extraction under sterile conditions.

  • Chemical peels with glycolic or salicylic acid, which are more concentrated than cosmetic products.

  • Microneedling combined with specific active ingredients to improve skin texture.

  • Fractional laser or pulsed light to stimulate cell renewal.

  • Oral medical treatments (isotretinoin, appropriate contraceptives) for severe cases of retentional acne.

6. Prevention and Lifestyle

  • Daily makeup removal with a cleansing oil or a gentle micellar water.

  • Daily sun protection to prevent skin thickening, which can lead to clogged pores.

  • Balanced diet limiting fast sugars and dairy products, which are often associated with acne.

  • Stress management and sufficient sleep, as cortisol influences sebum secretion.

7. Patience and Consistency: The Key to Success

It's important to remember that getting rid of closed comedones takes time. Visible results usually appear after 6 to 12 weeks of a consistent routine. Impatience often leads to giving up too soon or adopting aggressive practices.

Conclusion

Closed comedones are stubborn imperfections, but they are not inevitable. With an adapted skincare routine combining gentle cleansing, chemical exfoliation, retinoids, and non-comedogenic hydration, it's possible to significantly improve skin quality. For more severe cases, dermatological treatments offer targeted and effective solutions.

The key lies in patience, consistency, and choosing skincare adapted to your skin type. By avoiding common mistakes and relying on recognized active ingredients, everyone can achieve smoother, brighter, and more even skin, free from closed comedones.

Back to blog