Why and how to exfoliate facial skin?

Facial exfoliation is a crucial step in your beauty routine for achieving clear, smooth, and radiant skin. Whether you have oily, normal, or sensitive skin, this practice is essential for removing dead skin cells from the epidermis, promoting cell renewal, and preserving the balance of the skin's hydrolipidic film. In this article, we will explore what facial exfoliation is, why it's important, how to perform it, and which skincare products and cosmetic active ingredients to choose based on your skin type.

What is Facial Exfoliation?

Facial exfoliation is the process of removing dead cells from the skin's surface. These dead cells can clog pores, dull the complexion, and make skin feel rough. There are two main methods of facial exfoliation: mechanical scrubs and chemical exfoliation.

• MECHANICAL SCRUBS

Mechanical exfoliants are products that use abrasive particles to remove dead skin cells. Here are more details on how to use them:

How they work: Mechanical exfoliants work by gently rubbing abrasive particles against the skin. These particles usually have a rough texture, such as sugar grains, salt, fruit pits, coffee grounds, or synthetic microbeads. When massaged onto the skin, these particles dislodge dead cells from the top layer of the epidermis.

Formulation: Mechanical exfoliants are often sold as exfoliating creams, gels, or pastes. These products contain both the exfoliating particles and other moisturizing ingredients to help soothe the skin during exfoliation.

Application: When applying a mechanical exfoliant, it's essential to use gentle circular motions. This helps minimize the risk of irritation or skin damage. Avoid rubbing too vigorously, as this can lead to excessive abrasion.

Frequency of use: How often you use mechanical exfoliants depends on your skin type. For oily skin, you can use them two to three times a week. For normal skin, once a week is usually enough, and for sensitive skin, it's recommended to limit use to one to two times per month.

• CHEMICAL EXFOLIATION

Chemical exfoliation uses acids or fruit enzymes to dissolve dead skin cells.

Among the acids used in chemical exfoliation, salicylic acid is especially effective for oily skin. This beta-hydroxy acid penetrates pores, dissolves impurities, regulates sebum production, and helps prevent breakouts.

Fruit Enzymes: Fruit enzymes, such as papain (extracted from papaya) and bromelain (extracted from pineapple), are commonly used for sensitive skin. These enzymes gently break down dead skin cells without the need for scrubbing, making them more suitable for sensitive skin.

How they work: Chemical exfoliants work by chemically breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells. This allows these cells to detach more easily from the skin's surface. Unlike mechanical scrubs, chemical exfoliants do not require physical rubbing to remove dead cells.

Formulation Chemical exfoliants are often available as toners, serums, masks, or lotions. They contain controlled concentrations of acids or enzymes for more precise application.

Usage instructions vary depending on the product. Some chemical exfoliants are left on the skin for a short period and then rinsed off, while others are designed for longer application. Always follow the specific guidelines for the product you are using.

Why exfoliate your skin?

Facial exfoliation offers many benefits, regardless of your skin type.

• Remove dead skin cells: Dead cells on the skin's surface can clog pores, cause blemishes, and make your complexion look dull. Exfoliation helps remove them, revealing brighter skin.

• Promote cell renewal: By stimulating the production of new skin cells, exfoliation contributes to younger, healthier-looking skin. Cell regeneration takes about 28 days, but exfoliation speeds up this process.

• Maintain the hydrolipidic film balance: The hydrolipidic film is the skin's natural barrier, made of water and lipids. Proper exfoliation helps maintain this balance by removing dead cells while preserving the skin's protective barrier.

• Prepare skin for other treatments: Exfoliated skin absorbs skincare products better. Applying your moisturizer or serums after exfoliation allows for better penetration of active ingredients.

How to exfoliate your skin?

Facial exfoliation should be done carefully to avoid irritating the skin. Here's how to do it:

1. Prepare your skin: Start by cleansing your skin to remove any traces of makeup or dirt. Use a cleanser suitable for your skin type.
2. Apply a pea-sized amount of exfoliant: Use a small amount of your exfoliant, whether mechanical or chemical – although chemical exfoliants are less harsh on your skin. The product should be suitable for your skin type.
3. Apply with Caution: Spread the exfoliant over your face, avoiding the area around your eyes. For mechanical scrubs, use gentle circular motions. For chemical exfoliation, follow the product's instructions, typically by leaving it on for a certain period.
4. Rinse with Lukewarm Water: After application, thoroughly rinse your face with lukewarm water to remove any exfoliant residue.
5. Moisturize Your Skin: After exfoliating, apply a moisturizer to soothe your skin and restore its hydration. This will help prevent dryness or irritation.
6. Exfoliation Frequency: How often you exfoliate depends on your skin type. Oily skin can generally exfoliate two to three times a week, while normal or sensitive skin should limit exfoliation to once or twice a week.

Which skincare products and active cosmetic ingredients should you use for exfoliation, depending on your skin type?

For Oily Skin
Oily skin tends to produce excess sebum, which can clog pores and promote acne breakouts. Exfoliation is essential for removing excess sebum and dead skin cells, while also helping to prevent breakouts. Here's what you should look for in your exfoliating products:

• Salicylic Acid: This beta-hydroxy acid, also known as salicylic acid, is an ideal choice for oily skin. It penetrates deep into the pores, dissolving impurities, dead skin cells, and excess sebum. It is effective in preventing acne and brightening the skin. Look for cleansers, gels, or lotions containing salicylic acid.
• Gel or Lotion Exfoliants: Opt for gentle gel or lotion exfoliants containing fine exfoliating particles. They help remove dead skin cells without causing irritation. Microbeads or bamboo grains are good options.
• Frequent Use: Oily skin can generally exfoliate two to three times a week, depending on your skin's tolerance. However, be sure not to over-exfoliate, as this could cause irritation.

 

For "Normal" Skin

People with normal skin are fortunate not to experience issues with excessive dryness or overproduction of sebum. This means you have more flexibility when it comes to exfoliation. Here are some recommendations for your skin type:

• Gentle Scrubs: For normal skin, opt for gentle scrubs made with natural ingredients like oats, sugar, or clay. These products gently remove dead skin cells, revealing a brighter complexion. They are perfect for weekly use.
• Fruit Enzyme Exfoliants: Fruit enzyme exfoliants, such as papain and bromelain, are a gentle and effective option for normal skin. They help remove dead skin cells without causing irritation. You can use them once or twice a week.

For Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin requires a gentler approach to exfoliation. Too much harshness can cause irritation, redness, and a burning sensation. Here's how to care for sensitive skin:

• Gentle Chemical Exfoliants: Look for gentle chemical exfoliants containing fruit enzymes, such as papain or bromelain. These enzymes gently break down dead skin cells without abrasion. Avoid exfoliants with strong acids, as they can be too aggressive.
• Limited Frequency: Sensitive skin should limit exfoliation to once or twice a week. Carefully monitor your skin for any adverse reactions, and reduce the frequency if needed.
• Thorough Rinsing: After exfoliating, be sure to thoroughly rinse your face with lukewarm water to remove any exfoliant residue. Avoid hot water, as it can further irritate sensitive skin.

In conclusion, facial exfoliation is an essential step in your beauty routine to maintain healthy, radiant skin. By choosing the right type of exfoliant and adapting your routine to your skin type, you can enjoy the benefits of exfoliation while avoiding irritation. Remember to be gentle with your skin and moisturize it after exfoliation for optimal results.