What are the benefits of azelaic acid?

The cosmetic industry is constantly evolving, with new revolutionary ingredients emerging. One of these, azelaic acid, has garnered attention for its many benefits for the skin.

What is Azelaic Acid?

An azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid, an organic compound with two carboxyl groups in its molecular structure. This acid is naturally found in certain foods like wheat and barley, but its use in cosmetics has generated increasing interest. Additionally, azelaic acid is also produced by human skin as a byproduct of fatty acid metabolism.

In terms of chemical structure, azelaic acid appears as a linear carbon chain of nine carbon atoms, with two carboxyl (COOH) groups at the ends. This unique configuration gives azelaic acid properties that make it a valuable active ingredient for the skin.

The cosmetic industry is constantly evolving, with new revolutionary ingredients emerging. One of these, azelaic acid, has garnered attention for its many benefits for the skin.

What are the benefits of azelaic acid?

• Improved skin texture: Azelaic acid is praised for its gentle exfoliating properties, which help remove dead skin cells. This regular exfoliation contributes to refining skin texture, leaving skin smoother and brighter.
• Blackhead treatment: Those struggling with blackhead issues will find azelaic acid to be an effective ally. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, oily and textured skin can become smoother.
• Anti-inflammatory properties: Azelaic acid is known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a wise choice for those suffering from skin conditions such as acne and rosacea. It works by soothing skin inflammation and reducing redness associated with these issues.
• Antibacterial properties: In addition to its anti-inflammatory action, azelaic acid also demonstrates antibacterial properties. This can be particularly beneficial for skin with sebum imbalance prone to acne, where azelaic acid can help control the proliferation of acne-causing bacteria.
• Reduction of hyperpigmentation: Another benefit of azelaic acid is its ability to reduce pigment spots and hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting excess melanin, thereby helping to even out skin tone.

When to use azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid has demonstrated its effectiveness in treating comedonal acne and inflammatory acne (papulopustular, nodular, and nodulocystic), as well as various skin hyperpigmentation disorders characterized by abnormal/hyperactive melanocyte function, including melasma and potentially lentigo maligna.

Furthermore, azelaic acid exerts an antiproliferative and cytotoxic effect on human malignant melanocytes, and preliminary results indicate that it could slow the progression of cutaneous malignant melanoma.

Here are some recommendations for its use:

• Acne treatment: Due to its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, azelaic acid is often recommended as a topical treatment for acne. It can be applied directly to affected areas to reduce inflammation and prevent the formation of new lesions.
• Complexion improvement: For those looking to improve their skin's texture and clarity, azelaic acid can be integrated into a regular skincare routine. Its gentle exfoliating action helps remove dead skin cells, promoting a more even complexion.
• Rosacea management: Individuals with rosacea, a skin condition characterized by redness and dilated blood vessels, can benefit from applying azelaic acid. Its soothing properties help reduce redness and improve skin texture.
• Reducing Dark Spots: Azelaic acid is also recommended for reducing dark spots and hyperpigmentation. It can be applied directly to affected areas to help even out skin tone.

Which Product Not to Mix with Azelaic Acid?

While azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated, it's important to know which products should not be mixed with it to avoid potential adverse reactions. Specifically, combining azelaic acid with certain ingredients can reduce its effectiveness or cause irritation. Here are some substances to avoid mixing with azelaic acid:

• Retinoids: Retinoids, such as tretinoin and adapalene, are powerful ingredients often used to treat acne. However, combining them with azelaic acid can increase the risk of skin irritation. If you are already using retinoids, it's advisable to consult a healthcare professional before adding azelaic acid to your routine.
• Products Containing Vitamin C: While vitamin C is a beneficial ingredient for the skin, using it at the same time as azelaic acid can reduce their individual effectiveness. To avoid this, it's recommended to apply these ingredients at different times of the day.
• Benzoyl Peroxide Products: Benzoyl peroxide is another ingredient commonly found in acne-fighting products. Combining azelaic acid with products containing benzoyl peroxide can cause excessive skin irritation, so it's best to use them at different times or on different areas of the skin.

What active ingredients can you use with azelaic acid?

To get the most out of azelaic acid, you can combine it with other active ingredients to boost its positive effects. Certain complementary ingredients can be added to your skincare routine for optimal synergy:

• Hyaluronic Acid: For optimal hydration, a moisturizer with hyaluronic acid can be combined with azelaic acid. Hyaluronic acid attracts moisture, helping to keep the skin hydrated and balanced.
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Niacinamide is known for its soothing and brightening properties. When combined with azelaic acid, it can help improve skin texture while reducing redness.
• Chamomile Extract: To further soothe the skin, chamomile extract can be a good choice. It works well with azelaic acid to calm skin inflammation.

In conclusion, azelaic acid stands out as a versatile ingredient in skincare, offering a wide range of benefits for various skin concerns. Whether you're dealing with acne, looking to improve your skin's texture, or reduce dark spots, azelaic acid can be a valuable addition to your skincare routine.

However, it's crucial to take appropriate precautions, avoiding mixing azelaic acid with certain products and prioritizing synergistic combinations with other active ingredients. Furthermore, it's always recommended to consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist before adding new ingredients to your skincare routine, especially if you have specific skin concerns.

By taking a thoughtful approach and understanding the specific benefits of azelaic acid, you can unlock its full potential for radiant, healthy, and glowing skin. Remember to follow a consistent routine, adjust concentrations based on your individual needs, and give your skin the care it deserves, morning and night.

 

Sources

Fitton A, Goa KL. Azelaic acid. A review of its pharmacological properties and therapeutic efficacy in acne and hyperpigmentary skin disorders. Drugs. 1991 May;41(5):780-98. doi: 10.2165/00003495-199141050-00007. PMID: 1712709.

Searle T, Ali FR, Al-Niaimi F. The versatility of azelaic acid in dermatology. J Dermatolog Treat. 2022 Mar;33(2):722-732. doi: 10.1080/09546634.2020.1800579. Epub 2020 Aug 4. PMID: 32730109.