Anti-wrinkle creams and treatments for men
In a society where appearance plays a significant role, more and more men and women are seeking solutions to reduce the signs of skin aging. While anti-wrinkle creams were once primarily associated with women, men are now just as concerned with this issue.
The "men's" anti-wrinkle cream has become a staple in daily skincare routines. However, this is mainly due to marketing strategies. The structure of a woman's skin is identical to that of men's skin. Although male skin may, on average, have a higher sebum concentration than female skin, the ingredients used to combat the signs of aging will be the same.
An anti-aging and anti-wrinkle cream "for men" will therefore use the same ingredients as an anti-aging cream "for women". At VIBRE, we transparently create skincare for all genders.
Here, we discuss ways to control the appearance of signs of aging – whether you are a man or a woman.
Signs of aging: a natural process
Skin aging results from numerous biological, biochemical, and physical interactions that cause damage, altering skin functions.
This multifactorial physiological process affects the different layers of the skin and supporting tissues.
The epidermis thins, and cell renewal decreases: keratinocyte proliferation slows down. Normally, a complete cell renewal cycle takes 28 days. However, over time, this process slows down, sometimes extending to over 30 days. This stagnation leads to the accumulation of old cells, which can make the skin look dull and feel thicker.
The dermo-epidermal junctions weaken. The dermis atrophies, with a decrease in cellularity, vascularization, and the extracellular matrix, leading to disorganization, fragmentation, and reduction of collagen fibers. The subcutaneous adipose tissue also atrophies.
These processes lead to overall skin thinning and a weakening of its fat and muscle support, resulting in skin sagging.
Skin dryness is also a common concern for aging individuals due to an increase in insensible water loss.
If this dryness is not addressed, wrinkles tend to become more pronounced, especially as skin naturally thins with age. At the same time, changes occur in the dermis, causing a loss of firmness and skin sagging. These changes are also linked to the decrease in fatty and muscular tissue, which no longer provides adequate support. As a result, the face gradually undergoes changes in volume and appearance, while wrinkles deepen.
Skin aging can manifest in various ways, from gradually appearing fine lines and wrinkles to pigment spots, as well as a loss of firmness and elasticity.
What causes aging?
Aging is associated with a disruption of cellular repair and maintenance processes. This phenomenon is influenced, on the one hand, by an internal biological clock unique to each individual and genetically programmed, and on the other hand, by the cells' ability to defend themselves against damage caused by free radicals, which are toxic substances.
The biological clock of each individual is based on chromosomes, which carry the body's genetic material. With each cell division, these chromosomes shorten. When they reach a critical length, cells stop dividing and enter a phase of senescence (aging). Certain external factors, such as smoking or stress, can accelerate this process by speeding up the shortening of chromosomes.
Resistance to oxidative stress is also crucial. Mitochondria, which are the energy powerhouses of cells, are vulnerable to attacks from free radicals. These toxic substances damage mitochondria, thereby reducing the cell's vital energy. Mitochondrial resistance capabilities are partly determined by genes and vary with age, depending on the individual.
The role of hormones
Aging is also regulated by an insulin-like growth factor, and keratinocytes, which are skin cells, have specific receptors for this growth factor.
Over time, these keratinocytes, along with other skin cells like fibroblasts, experience a reduced ability to respond to this growth factor, leading to a disruption in the cell development process.
Consequently, fibroblasts produce less and less collagen and hyaluronic acid, resulting in a loss of skin firmness. Various hormones, such as thyroid hormones or sex hormones, also play a crucial role in the growth and appearance of the epidermis. The decrease in hormone secretion observed over time is therefore a major factor in the skin aging process.
The role of the environment
The role of the environment in the skin aging process is as important as that of physiology. It is now well-established that unfavorable environmental factors such as sun exposure, smoking, and stress can alter the genetic makeup of skin cells, thereby compromising their ability to reproduce and making them more vulnerable.
Dehydration
Skin dehydration is an important factor in the appearance of wrinkles. Without water, the supporting tissue beneath the dermis loses its suppleness, and the skin withers.
Wrinkles are often called 'expression lines' because as we age, muscles tend to shrink and need to contract more intensely to achieve the same result. For facial muscles, repeated contractions multiple times a day pull on the skin and form wrinkles. And as skin atrophies and its basic structure degrades over time, wrinkles become more pronounced in areas of strong muscle expression (forehead, nasolabial folds, lips, eyes).
However, on skin surfaces not affected by expression muscles (cheeks, décolletage…), wrinkles are mainly caused by environmental factors or poor positioning (sleep wrinkles).
How to combat the signs of aging?
While it's impossible to completely reverse the natural process of cellular aging, it is possible to limit its visible manifestations. Generally, a diet rich in antioxidants, such as fruits, vegetables, and fish, combined with regular physical activity, enhanced sun protection, quitting smoking, and adequate skin hydration, form the fundamental principles of an effective anti-aging strategy.
From a cosmetic perspective, certain molecules have proven effective against some signs of aging - whether in anti-aging creams for men or women.
What ingredients should you look for in your anti-aging skincare?
For younger skin, creams with Vitamin C provide protection against external aggressors and limit the action of free radicals.
Fatty Acids and Ceramides
To strengthen the skin's barrier, essential fatty acids like omega-3 and omega-6, along with ceramides found in oils such as argan, evening primrose, or almond oil, are effective.
These acids optimize cell renewal to reduce wrinkles and minimize the appearance of pores.
Hyaluronic Acid
This ingredient is a powerful moisturizer that can help smooth fine lines and wrinkles by boosting skin hydration.
Collagen
To improve the suppleness of the connective tissue in the dermis, products containing pro-collagen active ingredients or Matrixyl are recommended.
Retinol
Retinol and retinoid derivatives, rich in Vitamin A, are effective in stimulating the fundamental substance of the dermis and epidermis. They reduce wrinkles, pigmentation spots, and loss of firmness.
Optimizing the Action of Anti-Aging Facial Skincare
Anti-aging skincare isn't limited to just an anti-wrinkle cream. It encompasses a whole range of products designed to care for the skin, from anti-aging serums to day and night creams, as well as specific treatments for the eye contour.
These products work together to stimulate collagen production, deeply hydrate, and protect the skin from external aggressors, while reducing the visible signs of skin aging.
The Importance of a Morning and Evening Skincare Routine
For optimal results, it's recommended to incorporate anti-wrinkle treatments into your daily routine, morning and evening. Start by cleansing your face with a gentle cleanser rich in AHA or BHA, then apply an anti-aging serum to boost the effectiveness of your cream. Next, use a hydrating and protective day cream in the morning, and a regenerating night cream in the evening. Don't forget to take care of your eye area with a specific treatment, as this zone is particularly prone to the first signs of aging, and apply sunscreen to your entire face.
Source
Skin Aging. Dermato info. French Society of Dermatology