What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin , also known as nicotinamide or vitamin B3.
It plays a crucial role in many essential biological functions for the human body. Niacinamide is an ingredient found in many foods such as meat, fish, nuts, seeds and whole grains, but it can also be synthesized by the body from the amino acid tryptophan.
The benefits of niacinamide on the skin
Strengthens the skin barrier
Niacinamide is known to strengthen the skin barrier, which helps protect the skin from external aggressions such as pollution and UV rays.
Studies suggest that niacinamide may positively influence keratinocytes by promoting their differentiation and increasing ceramide levels in the skin.
By differentiating, keratinocytes synthesize lipids and proteins which help to form a protective barrier against external aggressions such as bacteria, irritating substances and loss of hydration.
Augmenting ceramides with niacinamide may strengthen the skin barrier, improve skin hydration, and reduce transepidermal water loss, contributing to healthier, more resilient skin.
Antioxidant action
As a derivative of vitamin B3, niacinamide acts as an antioxidant by neutralizing free radicals present in the skin. Free radicals are unstable molecules that can damage skin cells and accelerate the skin aging process. By neutralizing these free radicals, niacinamide helps protect the skin against damage caused by environmental factors such as the sun's UV rays, pollution and oxidative stress.
Regulates sebum production
For skin prone to excess oil , niacinamide can help regulate sebum production , reducing the appearance of enlarged pores and minimizing shine and acne problems. This regulation of sebum production helps maintain optimal skin balance, which is essential for healthy, glowing skin.
Reduces dark spots
Niacinamide is also effective in fading dark spots and hyperpigmentation, helping to even out skin tone and lighten dark areas of the skin. This brightening effect helps improve the overall appearance of the skin and reveal a brighter, more even complexion.
Anti-inflammatory
Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, niacinamide can soothe skin irritations, reduce redness and calm sensitive or reactive skin . This makes it an ideal ingredient for those suffering from inflammatory conditions such as eczema or rosacea.
Stimulates collagen production
Niacinamide is also known to stimulate collagen production in the skin, which helps maintain its firmness and elasticity. By stimulating collagen production , this ingredient helps prevent sagging skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
How to use niacinamide in your skincare routine?
To fully benefit from the benefits of niacinamide, it is recommended to integrate it into your daily care routine . Here's how you can use niacinamide in your morning and evening routine:
In the morning: after cleansing your face, apply a day cream containing niacinamide. Make sure you choose a lightweight formula that suits your skin type.
Follow with moisturizer and SPF sunscreen to protect your skin from harmful UV rays.
In the evening: after cleansing your face, apply a cream or serum containing niacinamide. You can also use products that combine niacinamide with other skin-beneficial ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid or peptides.
Finish with a moisturizer to seal in moisture and promote skin's nighttime regeneration.
With what ingredients should niacinamide be used?
Niacinamide can be used in combination with other ingredients commonly found in skin care products to optimize its action.
Glycolic acid + niacinamide
Glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells and reveal a smoother, brighter complexion. When combined with niacinamide, glycolic acid may be less irritating to the skin, thanks to niacinamide's soothing properties. This combination can be beneficial for all skin types , especially skin prone to dryness or sensitivity.
Stabilized vitamin C + niacinamide
The synergistic combination of vitamin C and niacinamide in skincare provides enhanced antioxidant protection, reduction of hyperpigmentation and inflammation, stimulation of collagen production for firmer and elastic skin, as well as strengthening the skin barrier for improved hydration and protection against external aggressions .
Biologically, they act differently to prevent the appearance of dark spots: vitamin C inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme necessary for the production of melanin, while niacinamide blocks the transfer of pigments into skin cells.
When it comes to application, there is no hard and fast rule for the order in which these two ingredients should be applied to your skin.
Hyaluronic acid + niacinamide
The combination of hyaluronic acid and niacinamide in skincare provides deep, long-lasting hydration thanks to the humectant properties of hyaluronic acid, while niacinamide helps strengthen the skin barrier, reduce hyperpigmentation and inflammation, as well as stimulating collagen production for firmer, brighter and more resilient skin.
Salicylic acid + niacinamide
Niacinamide combined with salicylic acid in a treatment helps strengthen the permeability of the hydrolipidic film, thus reducing insensible water loss, i.e. skin dehydration.
What product should not be mixed with niacinamide?
Niacinamide is generally compatible with most other skin care ingredients, but for sensitive skin, it is recommended to avoid combining it with products containing high concentrations of exfoliating acids, such as glycolic acid. or lactic acid.
Sources
WAN Y. & al. Nicotinamide attenuates aquaporin 3 overexpression induced by retinoic acid through inhibition of EGFR/ERK in cultured human skin keratinocytes. International Journal of Molecular Medicine (2008).
GARG KV & al. Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available? Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery (2013).
Wohlrab J, Kreft D. Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27(6):311-5. doi:10.1159/000359974. Epub 2014 Jun 27. PMID: 24993939.