What is acetyl tetrapeptide and its benefits?

Acetyl tetrapeptide-3 is a biomimetic peptide often used as a cosmetic ingredient in various skin care products and particularly anti-aging creams and serums. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 is sometimes called "Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7" or "Pal-GHK" in some formulations.

Peptides play a role in cellular communication and help stimulate the production of collagen and elastin , promote skin firmness , and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the face and eye area .

In particular, acetyl tetrapeptide-3 is often associated with anti-inflammatory properties and modulation of skin immune responses. It thus helps reduce inflammation, which helps improve the appearance of the skin by reducing redness and promoting more even-toned skin.

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What are the causes of wrinkles?

Wrinkles are the result of a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors acting on the epidermis and dermis . It is important to understand them in order to act on them.

  • Natural aging process

Natural aging of the skin is the main factor contributing to the appearance of wrinkles. Over time, the production of collagen and elastin, proteins essential for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity , decreases. The skin also loses its ability to retain moisture, leading to increased dryness. These intrinsic changes create a breeding ground for the formation of wrinkles.

  • Sun exposure

Excessive sun exposure is one of the most important external factors leading to the early formation of wrinkles. Ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun damage collagen and elastin fibers, accelerating the skin aging process. It is crucial to use an effective SPF sunscreen and avoid prolonged exposure to the sun to prevent UV damage.

  • Smoking

Smoking is a behavior that significantly contributes to the formation of wrinkles. Chemicals in tobacco smoke restrict blood flow, reduce oxygen supply, and damage the skin's collagen and elastin. Smokers tend to develop premature wrinkles, especially around the mouth.

  • Poor lifestyle

An unbalanced diet can also play a role in the appearance of wrinkles. Vitamin deficiencies, particularly vitamins A, C, and E, as well as minerals like zinc, can affect skin health. Insufficient consumption of antioxidants , which help fight free radicals, can promote premature aging of the skin .

To avoid vitamin A deficiency, eat foods rich in retinol. Vitamin A is found in the form of retinol in foods such as liver, eggs, fish and dairy products and include foods with Provitamin A: Vegetables and fruits rich in beta-carotene, a precursor of vitamin A , include carrots, sweet potatoes, spinach, melons, and mangoes.

To avoid vitamin C deficiency, include citrus fruits such as oranges, lemons, grapefruit, as well as strawberries and kiwis in your diet. Eat fresh vegetables: Vegetables like red pepper, broccoli, spinach and tomatoes are excellent sources of vitamin C.

To avoid vitamin E deficiency, opt for vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil, sunflower oil and olive oil. Eat nuts and grains and foods rich in antioxidants .

  • Dehydration

Adequate hydration is crucial to maintaining skin health. Dehydration can make skin dry, dull and more prone to wrinkles. It is essential to drink enough water throughout the day and use moisturizers to maintain optimal skin hydration.

  • Repetitive facial expressions

Repetitive facial movements, such as squinting, frowning, or smiling, can contribute to the formation of expression lines . Over time, these movements create permanent folds in the skin.

  • Genetic

Genetics also plays a role in predisposition to wrinkles. Some individuals have a genetic disposition to produce less collagen or have thinner skin, which can speed up the process of wrinkle formation.

How does tetrapeptide work on wrinkles?

Tetrapeptides are compounds that contain four amino acids. When used in anti-aging skin care products, especially anti-aging products, they can work in different ways to help reduce the appearance of wrinkles. The mechanisms vary depending on the type of tetrapeptide but here are some general ways they can work:

  • Collagen stimulation: Certain tetrapeptides are known to stimulate the production of collagen in the skin, which is a crucial structural protein that maintains skin firmness and elasticity . By stimulating collagen synthesis, tetrapeptides strengthen the structure of the skin and leave it plumped.
  • Reduction of inflammation: they have anti-inflammatory properties which help fight premature aging, particularly caused by chronic inflammation.
  • Anti-oxidant action: they help neutralize free radicals, unstable molecules produced by factors such as sun exposure and pollution, which can damage skin cells. By protecting the skin from free radical damage, tetrapeptides can help prevent premature skin aging .
  • Improved hydration: Certain tetrapeptides may play a role in keeping skin hydrated . Adequate hydration is essential to maintain skin suppleness and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles due to sagging skin .
  • Effect on neurotransmitters: certain tetrapeptides can influence the neurotransmitters responsible for muscle contractions. By modulating these signals, they can help reduce expression lines, which are often caused by repetitive movements of facial muscles.

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Application of 2.5% tetrapeptide 4 for 28 days morning and evening on mature skin

What other ingredients are used in anti-wrinkle active ingredients?

There are many other ingredients that can be used as anti-wrinkle active ingredients.

  • Retinol (Vitamin A): as we told you above, it is very interesting to integrate retinol into your diet and it is the same in your beauty routine! Retinol is often considered one of the most effective anti-aging ingredients. It stimulates collagen production, promotes cell renewal, and can help reduce wrinkles.
  • Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): AHAs, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, exfoliate the skin by removing dead surface cells. This promotes cell turnover , improves skin texture, and can reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
  • Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA): Salicylic acid is a BHA commonly used to exfoliate the skin, unclog pores, eliminate blemishes and promote cell regeneration at the first signs of aging. It can be beneficial for skin prone to blemishes in an exfoliant and wrinkles in a day cream .
  • Vitamin C: by protecting the skin against free radicals , it stimulates collagen production and can lighten pigment spots.
  • Hyaluronic Acid : Hyaluronic acid is a powerful moisturizer that can attract and hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, helping to hydrate the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
  • Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone): Like vitamin C, this natural antioxidant may help reduce the signs of skin aging by protecting the skin against damage caused by free radicals.
  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties and can help strengthen the skin barrier, improving skin texture and reducing wrinkles and redness.
  • Ceramides: Ceramides are lipids that strengthen the skin barrier, improving moisture retention and reducing dryness, which can reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

Sources

1. Walker K, Basehore BM, Goyal A, Zito PM. Hyaluronic Acid. 2023 Jul 3. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2023 Jan–. PMID: 29494047.

2. Bukhari SNA, Roswandi NL, Waqas M, Habib H, Hussain F, Khan S, Sohail M, Ramli NA, Thu HE, Hussain Z. Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomedicine: A review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects. Int J Biol Macromol. 2018 Dec;120(Pt B):1682-1695. doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2018.09.188. Epub 2018 Oct 1. PMID: 30287361.