Skin aging is a natural process that affects each of us. However, understanding the specific needs of mature skin and adopting a suitable skincare routine can make all the difference in preserving the firmness, elasticity and vitality of the oval of the face and your neck.
What is mature skin?
Mature skin does not relate to a specific age but to skin characteristics. We list some of them here.
LOSS OF FIRMNESS AND SKIN SAGGING
The loss of firmness associated with aging and mature skin is the result of several intrinsic and extrinsic factors that interact in a complex manner. It is interesting to understand them to develop an effective care routine.
- Decreased production of collagen and elastin : Collagen and elastin are essential structural proteins that give skin its firmness and elasticity. With age, the production of these proteins naturally decreases, leading to a weakening of the skin's structural support.
- Slowing down cellular regeneration : Cellular regeneration is a process that allows the skin to renew itself by replacing dead cells with new ones. Over time, this process slows down, leading to a buildup of dead cells that can make skin look dull and contribute to loss of firmness.
- Loss of subcutaneous fat : Decreased subcutaneous fat, a natural feature of aging, can also contribute to loss of firmness. This fatty layer plays a role in maintaining the structure and fullness of the skin.
- Genetic factors : Genetics play a role in how skin ages. Some individuals may be genetically predisposed to less collagen production or lower elastic fiber strength, which may influence the firmness of their skin.
- Exposure to external aggressions : External aggressions such as exposure to the sun , pollution and smoking contribute to the formation of free radicals . These free radicals can damage collagen, accelerating the skin's aging process.
- Reduction in hormone levels : Reductions in hormones, particularly during the aging process or during hormonal changes such as menopause, can lead to a significant decrease in the production of collagen and elastin in the skin. Sex hormones, such as estrogen, play a crucial role in maintaining skin health by stimulating the synthesis of these structural proteins. With decreasing hormonal levels, the skin can lose elasticity, become thinner and develop wrinkles. Collagen ensures the firmness and resistance of the skin, while elastin contributes to its suppleness. The decrease in these proteins can therefore lead to skin that is more prone to signs of aging, such as loss of firmness and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
AGE SPOTS
Age spots, also called solar lentigos or senile lentigos, are pigmented spots that commonly appear on sun-exposed skin and are signs of aging . They are mainly due to cumulative exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun over time. Here are some factors that contribute to the appearance of age spots:
- Sun Exposure : Prolonged and repeated exposure to the sun is the main cause of age spots. UV rays stimulate the production of melanin in the skin, leading to the formation of dark spots.
- Skin Aging : Age spots are more common with age, as the skin's ability to regenerate diminishes and the accumulation of sun damage becomes more apparent.
- Genetics : Genetic predisposition may play a role in the propensity to develop age spots. Some people are more likely to develop these spots due to hereditary factors.
- Hormones : Hormonal changes, such as those occurring during pregnancy, can cause increased skin pigmentation, contributing to the appearance of age spots.
- Smoking : Some researchers suggest that smoking may be associated with an increased risk of developing age spots.
How to maintain mature skin?
To take care of mature skin , it is essential to deeply moisturize the skin, exfoliate it to stimulate cell renewal and apply a mask at least once a week.
HOW TO PLUMP MATURE SKIN?
- Use hyaluronic acid : A powerful moisturizing ingredient suitable for all skin types that retains water, promotes skin suppleness and gives a plumper appearance.
- Glycerin is a hydrating agent that helps maintain skin hydration, contributing to its firmness.
HOW TO FILL WRINKLES AND WITH WHICH INGREDIENTS?
- Retinol : it is a form of vitamin A which acts on the skin by stimulating cell renewal, accelerating flaking and promoting collagen production. These actions help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin texture, regulate pigmentation and strengthen its structure. It also stimulates the production of new blood vessels in the skin, which improves skin color. Although retinol is effective in combating the signs of aging, it can also cause initial skin sensitivity, requiring gradual introduction into the skin care routine. Additionally, it takes three to six months of regular use before improvements in wrinkles are apparent, and the best results occur after six to twelve months. Among the retinoids, tretinoin is probably the most potent and certainly the most widely studied retinoid for the therapy of sun-induced skin aging .
- Peptides : These are chains of amino acids that can stimulate collagen production and help reduce the appearance of wrinkles. In a 2020 study published in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences, researchers examined the effects of peptides on premature aging. The researchers asked 22 people aged 40 or over to use anti-aging treatments including serums concentrated in peptides on their face and neck. After two weeks, the peptides helped reduce the appearance of aging skin in participants. Some peptides even have a mild Botox-like effect, relaxing muscles and treating fine lines.
- Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) : Also called fruit acids, these are among the non-organic acids that have been used in the treatment of skin disorders for about 40 years. These are among the most widely used and studied anti-aging skin care compounds. Clinical trials have demonstrated the effectiveness of these ingredients in reversing the effects of photoaging and improving wrinkles, skin elasticity, tone and hydration.
- AHAs act on both the epidermal and dermal levels. When applied to the skin, AHAs stimulate the exfoliation of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum. This results in the removal of dull, rough skin cells and promotes cell turnover. Originally used for the treatment of hyperkeratosis and other skin conditions affecting subcutaneous turnover, AHAs have been shown to promote softer, smoother skin, fade wrinkles, lighten age spots, and reduce blemishes . AHAs also improve subcutaneous barrier function, increase proliferation and thickness of the epidermis , and restore hydration through an increase in hyaluronic acid. Well-known benefits of AHAs include exfoliation, hydration, reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, collagen synthesis, skin tightening and brightening. Glycolic acid is the smallest and most widely used of the AHA compounds.
- Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid , are very similar to AHAs except for their solubility. Their structure and liposolubility allows them to quickly penetrate the skin through sebaceous follicles, making them suitable for patients with oily skin and open comedones. In addition to demonstrating the anti-inflammatory effect of BHAs, their irritant effect on the skin was also found to be less than that of AHAs. Beta hydroxy acid found in skin care products is most effective at a concentration of 1-2%.
HOW TO ELIMINATE AGE SPOTS?
- Vitamin C , by acting as a powerful antioxidant, neutralizes free radicals , protecting the skin from oxidative damage and premature aging. It stimulates the production of collagen, helping to reduce wrinkles and maintain skin firmness , while inhibiting the production of melanin to reduce the appearance of dark spots and even out skin tone. Additionally, vitamin C provides additional protection against UV damage, reduces skin inflammation and improves overall texture.
- Kojic acid : it acts on the skin by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. By blocking a key enzyme involved in the synthesis of melanin, kojic acid helps to reduce age spots, hyperpigmentation and brighten the complexion. Often used in skin care products, this lightening agent offers an alternative for treating pigmentation issues, although its effectiveness may vary from person to person. Regular use and combination with other appropriate ingredients can optimize results and help achieve more even and radiant skin.
- Alpha hydroxy active ingredients (AHAs) such as glycolic and lactic acid can exfoliate the skin, promote cell turnover and fade age spots to combat dullness .
- Hydroquinone : This ingredient works on the skin by inhibiting the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme, which is essential for the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. By blocking the synthesis of melanin, hydroquinone helps to reduce pigment spots and hyperpigmentation, and to lighten the complexion in a targeted manner. This lightening agent is often used in skin care products to treat pigmentation issues, although its use requires medical supervision and consultation due to possible side effects and safety concerns.
Sources
Do retinoids really reduce wrinkles? Harvard Health Publishing
Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-48. doi: 10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327. PMID: 18046911; PMCID: PMC2699641.
Jeong S, Yoon S, Kim S, et al. Anti-wrinkle benefits of peptides complex stimulating skin basement membrane proteins expression. Int J Mol Sci. 2019;21(1):73. doi:10.3390/ijms21010073
Moghimipour E. Hydroxy Acids, the Most Widely Used Anti-aging Agents. Jundishapur J Nat Pharm Prod. 2012 Winter;7(1):9-10. Epub 2012 Jan 4. PMID: 24624144; PMCID: PMC3941867.