Why and how to exfoliate facial skin?

Facial exfoliation is a crucial step in your beauty routine to achieve clear, smooth and glowing skin. Whether you have oily, normal, or sensitive skin, this practice is essential to eliminate dead cells from the epidermis , promote cell renewal , and preserve the balance of the skin's hydrolipidic film . In this article, we will explore what facial exfoliation is, why it is important, how to do it, and which cosmetic treatments and active ingredients to choose based on your skin type.

What is facial exfoliation?

Facial exfoliation is the process of removing dead cells from the surface of the skin. These dead cells can clog pores, dull the complexion, and make the skin rough. There are two main methods of facial exfoliation: mechanical exfoliation and chemical exfoliation.

• MECHANICAL SCRUBS

Mechanical scrubs are exfoliating products that rely on abrasive particles to remove dead skin cells. Here are more details on their use:

Method of action : Mechanical scrubs work by gently rubbing abrasive particles against the skin. These particles usually have a rough texture, like grains of sugar, salt, fruit pits, coffee beans or synthetic microbeads. When massaged into the skin, these particles dislodge dead cells from the upper layer of the epidermis.

Galenic : Mechanical scrubs are often marketed in the form of exfoliating creams, gels or pastes. These products contain both the exfoliating particles and other hydrating ingredients to help soothe the skin during exfoliation.

Application : When applying a mechanical exfoliator, it is essential to use gentle circular movements . This helps minimize the risk of irritation or damage to the skin. Avoid rubbing too vigorously, as this can cause excessive abrasion.

Frequency of use : The frequency of use of mechanical scrubs depends on your skin type. For oily skin, you can use them two to three times a week. For normal skin, once a week is usually sufficient, and for sensitive skin, it is recommended to limit their use to once or twice a month.

• CHEMICAL EXFOLIATION

Chemical exfoliation relies on the use of fruit acids or enzymes to dissolve dead skin cells.

Among the acids used in chemical exfoliation, salicylic acid is particularly effective for oily skin. This beta-hydroxy acid penetrates pores, dissolves impurities, regulates sebum production and helps prevent breakouts.

Fruit Enzymes : Fruit enzymes, such as papain (extract from papaya) and bromelain (extract from pineapple), are commonly used for sensitive skin. These enzymes gently break down dead skin cells without the need to scrub the skin, making them more suitable for sensitive skin.

How they work : Chemical exfoliants work by chemically breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells. This allows these cells to break away from the surface of the skin more easily. Unlike mechanical exfoliants, chemical exfoliants do not require physical friction to remove dead skin cells.

Galenic : Chemical exfoliants are often available in the form of toners, serums, masks or lotions. They contain controlled concentrations of acids or enzymes for more precise application.

Instructions for use vary depending on the product. Some chemical exfoliants are left on the skin for a short time and then rinsed off, while others are designed for more prolonged application. Always follow the specific directions for the product you are using.

Why exfoliate the skin?

Facial exfoliation has many benefits, regardless of your skin type.

• Remove dead cells from the epidermis : Dead cells on the surface of the skin can clog pores, cause blemishes and make the complexion appear dull. Exfoliation helps remove them, revealing brighter skin.

• Promote cell renewal : By stimulating the production of new skin cells, exfoliation contributes to younger, healthier skin. Cell regeneration takes approximately 28 days, but exfoliation speeds up this process.

• Preserve the balance of the hydrolipidic film : The hydrolipidic film is the skin's natural barrier, composed of water and lipids. Proper exfoliation helps maintain this balance by removing dead cells while preserving the skin's protective barrier.

• Prepare the skin for other treatments : Exfoliated skin absorbs skincare products better. Applying your moisturizer or serums after exfoliation allows for better penetration of the active ingredients.

How to exfoliate the skin?

Facial exfoliation should be done carefully to avoid irritating the skin. Here's how to do it:

1. Prepare your skin : Start by cleansing your skin to remove any traces of makeup or dirt. Use a cleanser suited to your skin type.
2. Add a dab of exfoliant : Use a small amount of your exfoliant, whether mechanical or chemical - although chemical cleanser is less harsh on your skin. The product should be suitable for your skin type.
3. Apply carefully : Distribute the exfoliant over your face, avoiding the area around the eyes. For mechanical exfoliations, use gentle circular movements. For chemical exfoliation, follow the product's instructions, usually leaving it on for a period of time.
4. Rinse with lukewarm water : After application, rinse your face thoroughly with lukewarm water to remove any exfoliant residue.
5. Moisturize your skin : After exfoliating, apply a moisturizer to soothe the skin and restore moisture. This will help prevent dryness or irritation.
6. Exfoliation frequency : Exfoliation frequency depends on your skin type. Oily skin types can generally exfoliate two to three times per week, while normal or sensitive skin types should limit exfoliation to one to two times per week.

With what treatments and cosmetic active ingredients should you exfoliate according to your skin type?

For oily skin
Oily skin tends to produce excess sebum, which can clog pores and promote the appearance of acne. Exfoliation is essential for removing excess oil and dead skin cells, while helping to prevent breakouts. Here's what you should look for in your exfoliating products:

• Salicylic Acid: This beta-hydroxy acid, also known as salicylic acid, is an ideal choice for oily skin. It penetrates deep into pores, dissolving impurities, dead skin cells and excess oil. It is effective in preventing acne and lightening the skin. Look for cleansers, gels, or lotions that contain salicylic acid.
• Gel or Lotion Exfoliants: Opt for gentle exfoliants in gel or lotion form containing fine exfoliating particles. They help remove dead skin cells without causing irritation. Microbeads or bamboo grains are good options.
• Frequent Use: Oily skin types can typically exfoliate two to three times per week, depending on your skin's tolerance. However, make sure not to over-exfoliate as this may cause irritation.

For “normal” skin

People with normal skin are fortunate not to have problems with excessive dryness or excess sebum production. This means you have more flexibility when it comes to exfoliation. Here are some recommendations for your skin type:

• Gentle Scrubs: For normal skin, opt for gentle scrubs made with natural ingredients, such as oats, sugar or clay. These products gently remove dead skin cells, revealing a more radiant complexion. They are perfect for weekly use.
• Fruit Enzyme Scrubs: Fruit enzyme scrubs, like papain and bromelain, are a gentle and effective option for normal skin. They help remove dead cells without causing irritation. You can use them once or twice a week.

For sensitive skin

Sensitive skin requires a gentler approach to exfoliation. Too much aggressiveness can cause irritation, redness and a burning sensation. Here's how to take care of sensitive skin:

• Gentle Chemical Exfoliants: Look for gentle chemical exfoliants that contain fruit enzymes, such as papain or bromelain. These enzymes break down dead skin cells gently without abrasion. Avoid strong acid-based exfoliants, as they can be too harsh.
• Limited Frequency: Sensitive skin should limit exfoliation to once or twice per week. Monitor your skin carefully for any adverse reactions, and reduce the frequency if necessary.
• Thorough Rinse: After exfoliating, be sure to rinse your face well with lukewarm water to remove any exfoliant residue. Avoid hot water, as it can further irritate sensitive skin.

In conclusion, facial exfoliation is an essential step in your beauty routine to maintain healthy and glowing skin. By choosing the right type of exfoliator and tailoring your routine to suit your skin type, you can enjoy the benefits of exfoliation while avoiding irritation. Remember to be gentle with your skin and moisturize after exfoliating for optimal results.