In a society where appearance plays a preponderant role, more and more men and women are looking for solutions to reduce the signs of skin aging. If anti-wrinkle creams were once associated mainly with the fairer sex, men are now just as concerned by this concern.
Anti-wrinkle cream "for men" has become a must-have in daily care rituals. However, this is mainly linked to marketing strategies. The structure of a woman's skin is identical to that of men's skin . Although male skin may be on average more concentrated in sebum than female skin, to combat the signs of aging, the ingredients will be the same.
A “men’s” anti -aging and anti-wrinkle cream will therefore use the same ingredients as a “women’s” anti-aging cream. At VIBRE, we create care for all genders seamlessly.
Here we talk to you about ways to control the appearance of signs of aging - whether you are a man or a woman.
Signs of aging, a natural process
Skin aging results from numerous biological, biochemical and physical interactions which induce damage which will alter skin functions.
This multifactorial physiological process affects the different layers of the skin and supporting tissues.
The epidermis is refined, cell renewal is reduced: keratinocyte proliferation is slowed. Normally, an entire cell renewal cycle takes 28 days. But over time, this process slows down, sometimes extending to more than 30 days. This stagnation leads to the accumulation of old cells, which can make the skin look dull and thicker.
The dermo-epidermal junctions are weakened. The dermis atrophies, with a decrease in cellularity, vascularization and extracellular matrix with disorganization, fragmentation and reduction of collagen fibers. The subcutaneous fatty tissue also atrophies.
These phenomena induce an overall thinning of the skin and a weakening of its adipo-muscular support, leading to skin sagging.
Dry skin is also a common concern among aging people due to an increase in transient water loss.
If this dryness is not treated, wrinkles tend to become more pronounced, especially since the skin tends to thin with age. At the same time, changes in the dermis occur, causing a loss of firmness and sagging of the skin. These changes are also linked to the decrease in fat and muscle tissue which no longer provides adequate support. Thus, the face gradually undergoes changes in volume and appearance, while wrinkles deepen.
Skin aging can manifest itself in a variety of ways, from gradually appearing wrinkles and fine lines to age spots and loss of firmness and elasticity.
What are the causes of aging?
Aging is associated with an impairment of cellular repair and maintenance processes. This phenomenon is influenced, on the one hand, by an internal biological clock specific to each individual and genetically programmed, and on the other hand, by the capacity of cells to defend themselves against damage caused by free radicals, toxic substances.
The individual biological clock is based on chromosomes, which carry the organism's genetic material. With each cell division, these chromosomes shorten. When they reach a critical length, the cells stop dividing and enter a phase of senescence. Certain external factors, such as smoking or stress, can speed up this process by accelerating the shortening of chromosomes.
Resistance to oxidative stress is also crucial. Mitochondria, which are the energy plants of cells, are vulnerable to attack by free radicals. These toxic substances alter the mitochondria, thereby reducing the cell's vital energy. Mitochondrial resistance capacities are partly determined by genes and evolve variably with age, depending on the individual.
The role of hormones
Aging is also regulated by a growth factor similar to insulin and keratinocytes, skin cells, have specific receptors for this growth factor.
Over time, these keratinocytes, as well as other skin cells such as fibroblasts, have a diminished ability to respond to this growth factor, leading to an impaired cell development process.
As a result, fibroblasts produce less and less collagen and hyaluronic acid, which results in a loss of skin firmness. Various hormones, such as thyroid hormones or sex hormones, also play a crucial role in the growth and appearance of the epidermis. The decrease in hormonal secretion observed over time therefore constitutes a major factor in the skin aging process.
The role of the environment
The role of the environment in the skin aging process is as important as that of physiology. It is now well established that adverse environmental factors such as sun exposure, smoking and stress can alter the genetic capital of skin cells, thus compromising their reproductive capacity and making them more vulnerable.
The dehydration
Skin dehydration is an important factor in the appearance of wrinkles. Without water, the supporting tissue beneath the dermis is no longer as supple and the skin withers.
Wrinkles are often called "expression lines", because the older we get, the more the muscles will shrink and have to contract more intensely for the same result. For the facial muscles, repeated contractions several times a day will pull on the skin and form wrinkles. And as over time, the skin atrophies and its basic structure deteriorates, it marks more in areas of strong muscular expression (forehead, nasolabial folds, lips, eyes).
On the other hand, on skin surfaces not used by expression muscles (cheek, neckline, etc.), wrinkles are mainly induced by the environment or poor positioning (sleep wrinkles).
How to fight the signs of aging?
Although it is impossible to thwart the natural process of cellular aging, it is nevertheless possible to limit its visible manifestations. In general, a diet rich in antioxidants, such as fruits, vegetables and fish, combined with regular physical activity, increased sun protection, stopping smoking and adequate skin hydration, constitute the fundamental principles of effective strategy against aging.
On a cosmetic level, certain molecules have proven themselves and are effective on certain signs of aging - whether in anti-aging creams for men or women.
What ingredients should you look for in your anti-aging care?
For young skin, vitamin C-based creams offer protection against external aggressions and limit the action of free radicals.
Fatty acids and ceramides
To strengthen the skin barrier, essential fatty acids such as omega-3 and omega-6, as well as ceramides present in oils such as argan, evening primrose or almond oil, are effective.
These acids will optimize cell renewal to reduce wrinkles and reduce the appearance of pores.
Hyaluronic acid
This ingredient is a powerful moisturizer that can help smooth fine lines and wrinkles by increasing skin hydration.
Collagen
To improve the flexibility of the connective tissue of the dermis, products containing pro-collagen active ingredients or matrixyl are recommended.
Retinol
Retinol and retinoid derivatives, rich in vitamin A, are effective in stimulating the fundamental substance of the dermis and epidermis. It reduces wrinkles, pigment spots and loss of firmness.
Optimize the action of anti-aging facial treatments
Anti-aging care is not limited to a simple anti-wrinkle cream. They include a whole range of products designed to take care of the skin, from anti-aging serums to day and night creams, including specific care for the eye area .
These products act in synergy to stimulate collagen production , deeply hydrate and protect the skin from external aggressions, while reducing the visible signs of skin aging .
The importance of a morning and evening skincare routine
For optimal results, it is recommended to integrate anti-wrinkle treatments into your daily routine, morning and evening. Start by cleansing your face with a gentle cleanser rich in AHA or BHA, then apply an anti-aging serum to boost the effectiveness of your cream. Then, use a moisturizing and protective day cream in the morning, and a regenerating night cream in the evening. Don't forget to take special care of your eye area, as this area is particularly prone to the first signs of aging, and to apply sunscreen all over your face.
Source
Aging of the skin. Dermato info. French Society of Dermatology