In the dynamic world of skincare, AHA and BHA fruit acids have taken over the cosmetic aisles.
Among them, mandelic acid stands out as a versatile and effective option for a variety of skin concerns. In this article, we will explore the benefits of mandelic acid and its multiple properties.
Mandelic acid: what is it?
Mandelic acid belongs to the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family.
AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, are popular cosmetic ingredients widely used for their exfoliating and skin rejuvenating properties. They are derived from fruits and other natural sources, and are known for their ability to remove dead skin cells , reduce the appearance of wrinkles, improve skin texture, and promote cell turnover.
The most commonly used AHAs in cosmetics include glycolic acid (derived from sugar cane), lactic acid (derived from milk), mandelic acid (derived from bitter almond), citric acid (derived from bitter almonds), derived from citrus fruits) and tartaric acid (derived from grapes).
Mandelic acid is obtained by extraction or synthesis from these bitter almonds. After various purification and chemical transformation processes, it is produced as a crystalline powder, which is then used in a variety of skin care products for its gentle exfoliating properties and other skin benefits.
The benefits of mandelic acid
- Gentle exfoliation
Mandelic acid exfoliates the skin by removing dead surface cells, which helps reveal smoother , more radiant skin. Unlike other fruit acids like glycolic acid, mandelic acid is gentler, making it suitable even for sensitive skin .
- Reduction of enlarged pores
Mandelic acid works on enlarged pores by gently exfoliating the skin to remove dead cells and impurities that clog pores . By promoting cell renewal, it helps tighten pores and reduce their appearance, while regulating sebum production to maintain skin balance.
- Anti-inflammatory properties
Mandelic acid also exhibits anti-inflammatory properties, making it an ideal choice for those who struggle with breakouts and inflammation. It can help calm the skin and reduce redness associated with acne and other inflammatory skin conditions.
- Suitable for the eye area
Unlike some other AHAs that may be too strong for the delicate eye area, mandelic acid is gentle yet effective, making it a great choice for targeting fine lines, dark circles, and bags in this sensitive region.
- Suitable for sensitive skin
Due to its gentle nature, mandelic acid is generally well tolerated even by sensitive skin. It provides the benefits of exfoliation without causing excessive irritation, making it suitable for regular use.
- Skin radiance
By removing dead skin cells and stimulating cell turnover, mandelic acid helps reveal a brighter, more even complexion . It can also help fade spots by gently exfoliating the surface layer of the skin, which helps remove pigment cells and melanin pigments that cause dark spots.
- Wrinkle reduction
Mandelic acid plays a crucial role in fighting the signs of aging, particularly by reducing wrinkles and restoring elasticity to the epidermis . By promoting controlled exfoliation, it eliminates damaged and aging epidermal cells, replacing them with younger, firmer cells, thereby stimulating skin renewal and visibly reducing the appearance of wrinkles .
Studies also reveal that chemical exfoliants, like mandelic acid, activate dermal fibroblasts to stimulate the production of new essential skin components such as collagen , elastin, and hyaluronic acid, although the exact mechanism remains still unknown.
Furthermore, other research highlights that mandelic acid regulates sebum production, thus helping to maintain skin hydration, especially when it is dry or damaged. A study finally shows that a topical treatment based on mandelic acid resulted in a significant improvement in skin firmness of 23% and an increase of 25% in the elasticity of the skin of the lower eyelids after just four weeks of treatment. 'use. These results conclude that mandelic acid represents an effective option for improving overall skin quality.
How to use mandelic acid
Mandelic acid can be found in a variety of skin care products, including gel cleansers, toners, serums, and peels. Here are some tips for incorporating it into your skincare routine:
Mandelic Acid Cleanser : Use a cleanser containing mandelic acid to deeply cleanse your skin and remove surface impurities and dead skin cells.
Serum or cream : Opt for serum or creams containing mandelic acid for targeted application. Apply it after cleansing to clean skin and before your moisturizer for optimal results.
Mandelic Acid Peel : For more intense exfoliation, consider using a mandelic acid peel once a week. Follow product instructions to avoid irritation.
Sun Protection : As with any exfoliating product, it is essential to protect your skin from sun damage by using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an appropriate SPF.
Difference Between Mandelic Acid and Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid and mandelic acid are therefore two types of acids used in skin care products for their ability to exfoliate the skin . Although they have similar mechanisms of action, they have some important differences.
- Action mechanism
Salicylic acid is a lipophilic beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). It has the ability to penetrate deep into the pores of the skin, where it works to dissolve oils and dead skin cells. This helps unclog pores and prevent the appearance of blackheads, acne and pimples.
Mandelic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds . It works by exfoliating the surface layer of the skin, helping to remove dead skin cells and stimulate cell turnover. However, it is less penetrating than salicylic acid.
- Efficiency
Salicylic acid is particularly effective in treating skin blemishes and acne-prone skin. By penetrating deep into pores, it can help remove impurities and prevent clogged hair follicles.
Mandelic acid is also effective in exfoliating the skin and improving its radiance . Using mandelic acid can help reduce the appearance of enlarged pores, age spots, and fine lines, while providing gentle, even exfoliation.
- Skin tolerance
Due to its ability to penetrate deep into pores, salicylic acid can sometimes cause irritation in people with sensitive or reactive skin. It is recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase, while monitoring any skin reactions.
Mandelic acid is generally better tolerated by sensitive skin due to its gentle nature. However, as with any exfoliating product, it is important to do a patch test before widespread use to ensure it is suitable for your skin.
Conclusion
Mandelic acid offers a multitude of benefits for the skin, from gentle exfoliation to the reduction of enlarged pores to its anti-inflammatory properties. Whether you have sensitive skin, prone to breakouts , or are simply looking to improve the radiance of your complexion, mandelic acid can be a valuable addition to your skincare routine. Remember to always do a patch test before introducing new products into your routine, and consult a dermatologist if you have specific concerns about your skin.