The cosmetics industry is constantly evolving, with the emergence of new revolutionary ingredients. One of them, azelaic acid, has attracted attention for its multiple benefits on the skin.
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid , an organic compound that has two carboxyl groups in its molecular structure. This acid occurs naturally in certain foods such as wheat, barley and barley, but it is its use in cosmetics that has attracted growing interest. Additionally, azelaic acid is also produced by human skin as a byproduct of fatty acid metabolism.
In terms of chemical structure, azelaic acid appears as a linear carbon chain of nine carbon atoms, with two carboxyl groups (COOH) at the ends. This unique configuration gives azelaic acid properties that make it a valuable active ingredient for the skin.
The cosmetics industry is constantly evolving, with the emergence of new revolutionary ingredients. One of them, azelaic acid, has attracted attention for its multiple benefits on the skin.
What are the benefits of azelaic acid?
- Improved skin texture : Azelaic acid is praised for its gentle exfoliating properties , thus promoting the removal of dead skin cells. This regular exfoliation helps refine skin texture, leaving skin smoother and brighter.
- Treatment of blackheads : People struggling with blackhead problems will find azelaic acid an effective ally. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties, oily and grainy skin can tend towards a smooth skin texture.
- Anti-inflammatory properties : Azelaic acid is renowned for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a wise choice for those suffering from skin conditions such as acne and rosacea. It works by soothing skin inflammation and reducing redness associated with these problems.
- Antibacterial properties : In addition to its anti-inflammatory action, azelaic acid also demonstrates antibacterial properties. This may be particularly beneficial for acne- prone skin with sebum imbalance, where azelaic acid can help control the overgrowth of acne-causing bacteria.
- Reduction of hyperpigmentation : Another virtue of azelaic acid is its ability to reduce pigment spots and hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibiting excess melanin, thereby helping to even out skin tone.
When to use azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid has been shown to be effective in the treatment of comedonal acne and inflammatory acne (papulopustular, nodular, and nodulocystic), as well as various hyperpigmentation skin disorders characterized by abnormal/hyperactive melanocyte function, including melasma and possibly lentigo maligna.
In addition, azelaic acid exerts an antiproliferative and cytotoxic effect on human malignant melanocytes, and preliminary results indicate that it may slow the progression of cutaneous malignant melanoma.
Here are some recommendations for its use:
- Acne Treatment : Due to its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties, azelaic acid is often recommended as a topical treatment for acne. It can be applied directly to affected areas to reduce inflammation and prevent new lesions from forming.
- Complexion Improvement : For those looking to improve the texture and clarity of their skin, azelaic acid can be incorporated into a regular skincare routine. Its gentle exfoliating action helps remove dead skin cells, thus promoting a more even complexion.
- Rosacea Management : People with rosacea, a skin condition characterized by redness and dilated blood vessels, may benefit from the application of azelaic acid. Its soothing properties help reduce redness and improve skin texture.
- Reduction of age spots : Azelaic acid is also recommended to reduce age spots and hyperpigmentation. It can be applied topically to areas with blemishes to help even out skin tone.
What product should not be mixed with azelaic acid?
Although azelaic acid is generally well tolerated, it is essential to know which products should not be mixed to avoid possible adverse reactions. In particular, the combination of azelaic acid with certain ingredients may compromise its effectiveness or cause irritation. Here are some substances to avoid mixing with azelaic acid:
- Retinoids : Retinoids, such as tretinoin and adapalene, are powerful ingredients often used to treat acne. However, combining them with azelaic acid may increase the risk of skin irritation. If you are already using retinoids, it is advisable to consult a healthcare professional before incorporating azelaic acid into your routine.
- Products containing vitamin C : Although vitamin C is a beneficial ingredient for the skin, its simultaneous use with azelaic acid may result in a decrease in their respective effectiveness. To avoid this, it is recommended to apply these ingredients at different times of the day.
- Benzoyl Peroxide Products : Benzoyl peroxide is another frequently used ingredient in anti-acne products. Combining azelaic acid with products containing benzoyl peroxide can cause excessive skin irritation, so it is best to use them at different times or on different areas of the skin.
Which active ingredient to use with azelaic acid?
When it comes to maximizing the benefits of azelaic acid, it is possible to combine it with other active ingredients to enhance its positive effects. Certain complementary ingredients can be integrated into a skincare routine for optimal synergy:
- Hyaluronic acid : For optimal hydration, a moisturizer with hyaluronic acid can be combined with azelaic acid. Hyaluronic acid attracts moisture, helping to keep skin hydrated and balanced.
- Niacinamide (vitamin B3): Niacinamide is known for its soothing and brightening properties. In combination with azelaic acid, it can help improve skin texture while reducing redness.
- Chamomile Extract : To further soothe the skin, chamomile extract can be a wise choice. It works well in tandem with azelaic acid to calm skin inflammation.
In conclusion, azelaic acid is emerging as a versatile ingredient in skin care, providing a wide range of benefits for various skin concerns. Whether you're battling acne, looking to improve your skin's texture, or fade age spots, azelaic acid can be a valuable addition to your skincare routine.
However, it is essential to take appropriate precautions, avoiding mixing azelaic acid with certain products and favoring synergistic associations with other active ingredients. Additionally, it is always recommended to consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist before incorporating new ingredients into your skincare routine, especially if you have specific concerns regarding your skin.
By taking a thoughtful approach and understanding the specific benefits of azelaic acid, you can harness the full potential of this active ingredient to achieve glowing, healthy, radiant skin. Remember to follow a consistent routine, adjust concentrations according to your individual needs, and give your skin the care it deserves, morning and evening .
Sources
Fitton A, Goa KL. Azelaic acid. A review of its pharmacological properties and therapeutic efficacy in acne and hyperpigmentary skin disorders. Drugs. 1991 May;41(5):780-98. doi:10.2165/00003495-199141050-00007. PMID: 1712709.
Searle T, Ali FR, Al-Niaimi F. The versatility of azelaic acid in dermatology. J Dermatolog Treat. 2022 Mar;33(2):722-732. doi:10.1080/09546634.2020.1800579. Epub 2020 Aug 4. PMID: 32730109.