Azelaic acid , a recognized dermatological active ingredient, is one of the essential facial care products for skin prone to blemishes and acne . This dicarboxylic acid is appreciated for its anti-inflammatory , anti-bacterial properties , and for its effectiveness in refining skin texture . However, its use requires precautions, particularly with regard to combinations with other products. Mixing azelaic acid with certain ingredients can reduce its effectiveness, irritate the skin or cause side effects. So, which products should you avoid? Here's everything you need to know to optimize your azelaic acid treatment .
What is azelaic acid and why use it?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid derived from grains such as barley, wheat, or rye. This powerful ingredient is often used in dermatological treatments for its many benefits:
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Blackhead Reduction : It unclogs the sebaceous glands and prevents pore clogging.
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Anti-inflammatory properties : It soothes redness and irritation, making it an ideal choice for sensitive skin.
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Antibacterial action : Azelaic acid fights against the bacteria responsible for acne .
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Improved skin texture : By gently exfoliating dead cells , it contributes to clear and even skin.
It is found in various concentrations, usually between 15 and 20% , in the form of creams, gels or serums. Dermatologists recommend applying it morning and evening to the entire face , but it is crucial to avoid certain combinations to ensure optimal results.
Products to avoid with azelaic acid
1. Other powerful exfoliating acids
While azelaic acid is relatively gentle, it is still an exfoliant. Combining it with other acids like glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or lactic acid can cause over-exfoliation. This can dry out your skin, damage your skin barrier, and cause irritation. If you are using an acid like salicylic acid to target blackheads or large pores , alternate days of application rather than overlapping them.
2. Retinoids
Retinoids, such as retinol or tretinoin, are also exfoliating and stimulate cell turnover. When combined with azelaic acid , the skin can become very reactive, leading to redness, flaking, and burning. To avoid these discomforts, use retinoids at night and azelaic acid in the morning, or consult a dermatologist for personalized advice.
3. Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, but it can be unstable when mixed with other active ingredients. Using a vitamin C and azelaic acid product at the same time can reduce the effectiveness of both products and cause irritation. To get the benefits of both ingredients, apply vitamin C in the morning and azelaic acid in the evening.
4. Benzoyl Peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide is a commonly used ingredient to treat acne, but it can be too harsh when combined with azelaic acid . This combination can dry out the skin and cause severe irritation. If you want to use both ingredients, apply them at different times of the day and follow with a moisturizer to soothe the skin.
5. Essential oils too concentrated
Some essential oils , such as tea tree or peppermint, can irritate the skin when used with azelaic acid . These ingredients, while natural, are powerful and should be used sparingly, especially on skin prone to redness or acne.
The right steps for using azelaic acid
To maximize the benefits of azelaic acid , it is important to adopt an appropriate skincare routine:
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Cleanse your skin with a gentle cleanser : Opt for non-irritating cleansers that do not alter the skin barrier.
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Moisturize with a suitable cream : A non-comedogenic moisturizer helps maintain skin balance and prevent irritation.
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Apply sunscreen : Azelaic acid may increase skin sensitivity to the sun. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning.
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Follow the application instructions : Use a small amount of azelaic acid (a pea-sized amount is enough) and spread it evenly over the entire face or targeted areas.
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Combine with compatible ingredients : Active ingredients such as zinc , thermal water , or hydrosols (e.g. witch hazel) are perfect to complete your routine.
Why avoid stacking certain products?
The skin has a limited capacity to absorb active ingredients, and layering incompatible ingredients can cause side effects such as:
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Skin irritations : Redness, itching, burning sensations.
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Weakened skin barrier : Overstimulation can disrupt natural sebum secretion and lead to dry or fragile skin .
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Decreased Product Effectiveness : Some active ingredients may cancel each other out when used together.
Alternatives and solutions to avoid incompatibilities
If you want to integrate several active ingredients into your routine, there are simple solutions to avoid incompatibilities:
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Alternate days of use : For example, use a vitamin C treatment on even days and an azelaic acid treatment on odd days.
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Separate applications during the day : Apply one ingredient in the morning and another in the evening.
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Choose products formulated to be used together : Some treatments combine several active ingredients in a balanced way and without risk of irritation.
When to consult a dermatologist?
If you notice persistent redness, irritation, or worsening of your blemishes after introducing azelaic acid into your routine, consult a dermatologist . Your professional will be able to evaluate your skin and suggest a suitable routine. Additionally, if you are considering using stronger treatments like retinoids or benzoyl peroxide, medical advice is essential.
Example of a skincare routine with azelaic acid
Here's a simple and effective routine for skin prone to acne or redness:
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Morning :
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Cleanse your skin with micellar water or a gentle gel.
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Apply a soothing hydrosol, such as witch hazel.
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Apply azelaic acid treatment .
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Moisturize with a light moisturizer and apply sun protection.
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Evening :
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Remove makeup with a makeup remover oil or micellar water.
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Cleanse your skin with a mild cleanser.
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Apply a moisturizing serum or cream containing zinc .
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Conclusion
Azelaic acid is an effective ingredient for treating blemish- prone skin , but its use requires some precautions. Avoid combining it with strong acids, retinoids, or aggressive products to preserve the health of your skin. By following a suitable routine and respecting the application tips, you can fully enjoy the benefits of azelaic acid and obtain clear and balanced skin. Do not hesitate to seek the advice of a dermatologist to personalize your routine and maximize the results.