When not to use retinol?

Retinol is one of the leading ingredients in dermatology, renowned for its many benefits, particularly in the treatment of acne and the fight against the signs of aging. This vitamin A derivative stimulates cell renewal and improves skin texture. However, despite its undeniable virtues, there are situations where the use of retinol may be contraindicated, or even dangerous. Knowing these circumstances is crucial to avoid side effects or complications.

During pregnancy and breast-feeding

One of the main contraindications to the use of retinol concerns pregnant or breastfeeding women. Vitamin A derivatives, including retinol andretinoic acid, can cause birth defects when used during pregnancy.All-trans-retinoic acid, used under prescription for severe conditions such as nodular acne, is particularly dangerous. Even milder forms, such as retinyl palmitate, should be avoided as a precautionary measure. For pregnant women seeking to treat signs of aging or brown spots, milder alternatives such as vitamin C or fruit acids (AHAs) are recommended.

Sensitive or reactive skin

Sensitive skin often reacts badly to retinol. This powerful active ingredient can cause redness, irritation and even desquamation, worsening the condition of reactive skin. Symptoms of intolerance include burning sensations, extreme dryness and excessive desquamation. To reduce these risks, we recommend starting with a less potent type of retinoid, such as retinol esters, to gradually acclimatize the skin. It is also advisable to use retinol in low concentrations and to space out applications.

Inflammatory skin disorders

People suffering from conditions such as eczema, psoriasis or rosacea should avoid using retinol. This ingredient can aggravate existing inflammation, disrupting the skin's barrier function. Retinol accelerates cell renewal, which can exacerbate redness and desquamation in sensitive skin. What's more, inflammatory skin disorders often require gentle treatments to avoid aggravation.