What is mature skin and how can it be cared for?

Skin aging is a natural process that affects us all. However, understanding the specific needs of mature skin and adopting an appropriate skincare routine can make all the difference in preserving the firmness, elasticity and vitality of theoval of your face and neck.

What is mature skin?

Mature skin is not related to a specific age, but to certain skin characteristics. We list some of them here.

LOSS OF FIRMNESS AND SAGGING SKIN

The loss of firmness associated with aging and mature skin is the result of several intrinsic and extrinsic factors that interact in complex ways. It's important to understand them in order to develop an effective skin care routine.

• Decreased collagen andelastin production Collagen and elastin are essential structural proteins that give skin its firmness and elasticity. With age, production of these proteins naturally declines, leading to a weakening of the skin's structural support.
• Slower cell regeneration Cell regeneration is a process that enables the skin to renew itself by replacing dead cells with new ones. Over time, this process slows down, leading to an accumulation of dead cells that can make skin look dull and contribute to loss of firmness.
• Loss of subcutaneous fat mass Loss of subcutaneous fat, a natural feature of aging, can also contribute to loss of firmness. This fatty layer plays a role in maintaining the skin's structure and fullness.
• Genetic factors Genetics play a role in how the skin ages. Some individuals may be genetically predisposed to lower collagen production or elastic fiber strength, which can influence skin firmness.
• Exposure to external aggressors External aggressors such assun exposure, pollution and smoking contribute to the formation of free radicals. These free radicals can damage collagen, accelerating the skin's aging process.
• Reduced hormone levels Reductions in hormone levels, particularly during the aging process or hormonal changes such as menopause, can lead to a significant decrease in collagen and elastin production in the skin. Sex hormones, such as estrogen, play a crucial role in maintaining skin health by stimulating the synthesis of these structural proteins. As hormone levels decline, skin can lose elasticity, become thinner and develop wrinkles. Collagen ensures the skin's firmness and resistance, while elastin contributes to its suppleness. A reduction in these proteins can therefore lead to skin that is more prone to the signs of aging, such as loss of firmness and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

AGE SPOTS

Age spots, also known as solar lentigos or senile lentigos, are pigmented spots that generally appear on sun-exposed skin and are signs of aging. They are mainly due to cumulative exposure to the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays over time. Here are a few factors that contribute to the appearance of age spots:

• Sun exposure Prolonged and repeated exposure to the sun is the main cause of age spots. UV rays stimulate melanin production in the skin, leading to the formation of dark spots.
• Skin aging Age spots are more frequent with age, as the skin's ability to regenerate diminishes and the accumulation of sun damage becomes more apparent.
• Genetics Genetic predisposition may play a role in the propensity to develop age spots. Some people are more likely to develop age spots due to hereditary factors.
• Hormones Hormonal changes, such as those occurring during pregnancy, can lead to increased skin pigmentation, contributing to the appearance of age spots.
• Smoking Some researchers suggest that smoking may be associated with an increased risk of developing age spots.

How to care for mature skin

To care for mature skin, it's essential to deeply moisturize, exfoliate to stimulate cell renewal and apply a mask at least once a week.

HOW TO PLUMP UP MATURE SKIN?

• Usehyaluronic acid: A powerful moisturizing ingredient suitable for all skin types that retains water, promotes supple skin and gives a plumper appearance.
• Glycerin is a moisturizing agent that helps maintain skin hydration, contributing to its firmness.

HOW TO FILL IN WRINKLES AND WITH WHICH INGREDIENTS?

• Retinol: this is a form of vitamin A that acts on the skin by stimulating cell renewal, accelerating desquamation and promoting collagen production. These actions help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin texture, regulate pigmentation and reinforce skin structure. It also stimulates the production of new blood vessels in the skin, improving skin color. Although retinol is effective in combating the signs of aging, it can also cause initial skin sensitivity, necessitating a gradual introduction into the skin care routine. In addition, it takes three to six months of regular use before improvements in wrinkles are apparent, and best results occur after six to twelve months. Among the retinoids, tretinoin is probably the most potent and certainly the most widely studied retinoid for sun-induced skin aging therapy.
• Peptides: these are chains of amino acids that can stimulate collagen production and help reduce the appearance of wrinkles. In a study published in 2020 in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences, researchers examined the effects of peptides on premature aging. The researchers asked 22 people aged 40 or over to use anti-aging skincare products including peptide-concentrated serums on their face and neck. After two weeks, the peptides helped reduce the appearance of skin aging in the participants. Some peptides even had a mild Botox-like effect, relaxing muscles and treating fine lines.
• Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHA): also known as fruit acids, these are among the non-organic acids that have been used in the treatment of skin disorders for around 40 years. They are among the most widely used and studied anti-aging skin care compounds. Clinical trials have demonstrated the effectiveness of these ingredients in reversing the effects of photoaging and improving wrinkles, skin elasticity, tone and hydration.
• AHAs act at both epidermal and dermal levels. When applied to the skin, AHAs stimulate exfoliation of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum. This eliminates dull, rough skin cells and promotes cell renewal. Initially used for the treatment of hyperkeratosis and other skin conditions affecting subcutaneous renewal, AHAs have been shown to promote softer, smoother skin, diminish wrinkles, lighten age spots and reduce blemishes. AHAs also improve subcutaneous barrier function, increaseepidermal proliferation and thickness, and restore hydration through an increase in hyaluronic acid. The well-known benefits of AHAs include exfoliation, hydration, reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, collagen synthesis, skin firming and brightening. Glycolic acid is the smallest and most widely used of the AHA compounds.
• Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), such assalicylic acid, are very similar to AHAs, except for their solubility. Their structure and liposolubility enable them to penetrate the skin rapidly through the sebaceous follicles, making them suitable for patients with oily skin and open comedones. As well as demonstrating the anti-inflammatory effect of BHAs, their irritating effect on the skin has also been shown to be less than that of AHAs. The beta-hydroxy acid found in skin care products is most effective at a concentration of 1-2%.

HOW TO REMOVE AGE SPOTS

• Vitamin C, acting as a powerful antioxidant, neutralizes free radicals, protecting skin from oxidative damage and premature aging. It stimulates collagen production, helping to reduce wrinkles and maintain skin firmness, while inhibiting melanin production to reduce the appearance of dark spots and even out skin tone. In addition, vitamin C offers extra protection against UV damage, reduces skin inflammation and improves overall texture.
• Kojic acid: acts on the skin by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. By blocking a key enzyme involved in melanin synthesis, kojic acid helps to reduce pigmentation spots, hyperpigmentation and brighten the complexion. Often used in skin care products, this brightening agent offers an alternative for treating pigmentation problems, although its effectiveness can vary from person to person. Regular use and combination with other appropriate ingredients can optimize results and help achieve more even, radiant skin.
• Alpha-hydroxy actives (AHAs) such as glycolic and lactic acid can exfoliate skin, promote cell renewal and reduce pigmentation spots to combat dullness.
• Hydroquinone: this ingredient works on the skin by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, essential for the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. By blocking melanin synthesis, hydroquinone helps reduce pigmentation spots and hyperpigmentation, and lightens the complexion in a targeted way. This brightening agent is often used in skin care products to treat pigmentation problems, although its use requires medical supervision and consultation due to possible side effects and safety concerns.

Sources

Do retinoids really reduce wrinkles? Harvard Health Publishing

Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-48. doi: 10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327. PMID: 18046911; PMCID: PMC2699641.

Jeong S, Yoon S, Kim S, et al. Anti-wrinkle benefits of peptides complex stimulating skin basement membrane proteins expression. Int J Mol Sci. 2019;21(1):73. doi:10.3390/ijms21010073

Moghimipour E. Hydroxy Acids, the Most Widely Used Anti-aging Agents. Jundishapur J Nat Pharm Prod. 2012 Winter;7(1):9-10. Epub 2012 Jan 4. PMID: 24624144; PMCID: PMC3941867.