Hyperpigmentation of black and mixed-race skin

Hyperpigmentation is a common phenomenon that affects black and mixed-race skin in a particularly visible way. These skin types are often prone to pigmentation spots due to higher melanin production. Melanocytes, the cells responsible for skin pigmentation, react more intensely to external aggressions, such assun exposure, inflammation or hormonal changes. This leads to theappearance of more pronounced and sometimes persistentspots, which can be unsightly and difficult to treat. Let's find out more about the different types of hyperpigmentation, their causes, and how to reduce them.

What is hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation manifests itself as dark patches on the surface of the skin, often referred to as pigment spots. These spots are the result of an overproduction of melanin, the pigment that gives skin, hair and eyes their color. In darker skins, this melanin production is naturally higher, making them more susceptible to hyperpigmentation spots.

Melanocytes and the pigmentation process

Melanocytes, located in the basal layer of theepidermis, produce melanin to protect the skin against UV rays. When exposed to the sun, this process intensifies, resulting in a tan. However, when melanocytes are excessively or irregularly stimulated, this can lead to localized dark spots. Black and mixed-race skins are particularly sensitive to this phenomenon, due to their high pigment concentration.

Types of hyperpigmentation on dark skin

There are several types of hyperpigmentation, each with its own specific causes and treatments:

1. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)

This is the most common type in black and mixed-race skin. It occurs as a result of skin inflammation, such asacne, burns or scars. Hyperpigmentation appears in the form of dark patches or brown spots that can persist for months or even years. These spots are due to an overproduction of melanin in the area affected by the inflammation.

2. Melasma (or pregnancy mask)

This type ofhyperpigmentation is linked to hormonal changes, particularly during pregnancy or when taking contraceptives. It manifests itself as irregular brown spots on the face, particularly on the cheeks, forehead and upper lip. Although melasma is often associated with pregnant women, it can also affect other people exposed to hormonal variations.

3. Age spots (solar lentigo)

These pigment spots, also known as sun spots, appear with aging and repeatedsun exposure. They appear as small brown spots on sun-exposed areas such as the décolleté, back of hands and face. Their appearance is linked to an accumulation of UV damage over the years.

Triggering factors for hyperpigmentation

Several factors can trigger or aggravate pigmentation spots on black and mixed-race skin:

1. Sun exposure

Ultraviolet (UV) rays are the main cause ofhyperpigmentation. Excessive sun exposure stimulates melanocytes, leading to overproduction of melanin. UVA and UVB rays can cause burns and accelerate skin aging, promoting theappearance of spots.

2. Hormonal changes

Hormonal changes, particularly those associated with pregnancy or hormone treatments, can cause hyperpigmentation. This is particularly common in darker skin types, where spots can become darker and more persistent.

3. Skin inflammation

Any skin lesion or inflammation (such asacne pimples or burn scars) can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The more intense theinflammation, the more pronounced the dark spots.

4. Pigment disorders

Certain disorders, such as vitiligo or keratosis, can cause white patches or discolorations on the skin. These pigmentation disorders require specific dermatological treatment.

Treatments to reduce hyperpigmentation

There are several methods for reducing spots on black and mixed-race skin:

1. Depigmenting creams

Anti-spot creams containinghydroquinone, vitamin C, or natural lightening agents (such asaloe-vera) are effective in fading spots. These products work by reducing melanin production.

2. Dermatological treatments

• Chemical peel: By eliminating the superficial layer of theepidermis, a chemical peel removes blemishes.
• Laser treatment: Laser treatment targets pigmentation spots by destroying the cells responsible for overproduction of melanin.
• Cryotherapy:Liquid nitrogen is used to treat localized brown spots.

3. Cosmetic care

The use of sunscreens with a high SPF is essential to protect the skin against UV rays.

Anti-spot serums and moisturizers help maintain an even complexion. Ideally, skin should be cleansed withsalicylic acid- or lactic acid-based products.

4. Natural remedies

Ingredients such as lemon juice, lilyessential oil and chaulmoogra are known for their skin-lightening properties. However, they should be used with caution on dark skin, as they can cause redness or excessive depigmentation.

Preventing hyperpigmentation

The best way to preventhyperpigmentation is to adopt an appropriate skincare routine:

• Sun protection: Use sunscreen daily, even on exposed areas in winter.
• Avoid prolonged exposure: Limit excessive tanning and avoid sunburn.
• Regular moisturizing: Apply a moisturizing cream to maintain the skin barrier.
• Gentle exfoliation: Choose non-abrasive exfoliants to avoid aggravatingskin inflammation.

Conclusion

Hyperpigmentation on black and mixed-race skin is a common problem, but manageable with the right care and treatment. Controlled sun exposure, appropriate skin care and the advice of a dermatologist can make a significant difference in reducing dark spots and restoring an even skin tone.