How do I get rid of closed comedones?

How do I get rid of closed comedones?

Closed comedones, also known as "microcysts", are one of the most common skin blemishes. Unlike blackheads (open comedones), they appear as small white or flesh-colored bumps, often located on the forehead, cheeks or chin. Often discreet but persistent, they can give the skin a grainy appearance and resist conventional skin care treatments. So, how do you effectively get rid of closed comedones?

1. What is a closed comedo?

A closed comedo results from obstruction of the hair follicle by excess sebum, dead cells and sometimes bacteria. The difference with an open comedo (blackhead) is that the pore remains closed to the skin surface. As the contents are not oxidized by air, they retain a white or translucent appearance.

These lesions belong to theretentional acne family and are often the first step before inflammation (red pimple or pustule).

2. The main causes of closed comedones

  • Excess sebum linked to oily or combination skin.

  • Accumulation of dead cells due to slow cell renewal.

  • Comedogenic cosmetics (excessively greasy creams, occlusive make-up).

  • Hormonal changes (puberty, menstrual cycle, pregnancy).

  • Poor lifestyle: high-sugar diet, stress, lack of sleep.

  • Environmental factors: pollution, humidity, excessive heat.

3. Common mistakes to avoid

Faced with closed comedones, many people make mistakes that aggravate the problem:

  • Squeezing or piercing microcysts: this often leads to inflammation, scarring or hyperpigmentation.

  • Use abrasive scrubs: excessive mechanical exfoliation can irritate the skin and stimulate sebum production.

  • Use skincare products that are too rich or unsuitable for your skin type.

  • Multiplying products without consistency unbalances the skin barrier.

4. Effective solutions for closed comedones

a. Appropriate cleaning

A gentle cleanser without sulfates, suitable for combination or oily skin, helps reduce excess sebum without aggressing the skin. A physiological pH gel or foam is ideal.

b. Chemical exfoliation

Chemical exfoliation is the most effective method for treating closed comedones:

  • Salicylic acid (BHA): fat-soluble, it penetrates pores and helps dissolve sebum.

  • Fruit acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid: promote cell renewal.

  • Lactic acid: gentler, suitable for sensitive skin.

Regular use (1 to 3 times a week depending on tolerance) smoothes skin and prevents the formation of new blackheads.

c. Topical retinoids

Vitamin A derivatives (such as adapalene or retinol in cosmetics) regulate cell renewal, unclog pores and prevent the formation of microcysts. They are one of the benchmark treatments in dermatology.

d. Non-comedogenic moisturizers

Even oily skin needs moisturizing. It's essential to opt for a light moisturizing cream based on non-comedogenic ingredients (hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, aloe vera gel).

e. Complementary assets

  • Niacinamide: regulates sebum production and soothes skin.

  • Sulfur: purifies and cleanses pores.

  • Benzoyl peroxide: especially useful if closed comedones develop into inflammatory pimples.

5. Professional treatments

When closed comedones are numerous or resistant, dermatological solutions can be considered:

  • Dermatological cleaning or professional extraction under sterile conditions.

  • Chemical peels with glycolic or salicylic acid, more concentrated than cosmetic products.

  • Microneedling combined with specific active ingredients to improve skin texture.

  • Fractional laser or pulsed light to stimulate cell renewal.

  • Oral medical treatments (isotretinoin, suitable contraceptives) in severe cases of acne retention.

6. Prevention and healthy living

  • Daily cleansing with a cleansing oil or gentle micellar water.

  • Daily sun protection to prevent skin thickening, which can lead to clogged pores.

  • Balanced diet limiting fast sugars and dairy products, often associated with acne.

  • Manage stress and get enough sleep, as cortisol influences sebum secretion.

7. Patience and consistency: the key to success

It's important to remember that closed comedones take time to disappear. Visible results generally appear after 6 to 12 weeks of regular treatment. Impatience often leads to giving up too soon or adopting aggressive gestures.

Conclusion

Closed comedones are stubborn imperfections, but they're not inevitable. With the right skincare routine combining gentle cleansing, chemical exfoliation, retinoids and non-comedogenic moisturizing, skin quality can be significantly improved. For more severe cases, dermatological treatments offer targeted, effective solutions.

The key is patience, regularity and choosing the right skin care products for your skin type. By avoiding classic mistakes and relying on recognized active ingredients, everyone can regain smoother, brighter, more even skin, free from closed comedones.

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