Salicylic acid to treat blackheads, acne and blemishes
Skin problems such as pimples, blackheads and local imperfections are common and can affect all skin types, especially combination and oily skin. Salicylic acid is one of the most effective solutions to these problems, thanks to its exceptional properties.
Salicylic acid: an ally against imperfections
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its effectiveness against acne and blemishes. Thanks to its keratolytic action, it helps stimulate cell renewal by gently exfoliating the skin's surface. The term "keratolytic" comes from the Greek words "kerato" (relating to keratin, a protein found in the skin) and "lytic" (meaning "to dissolve" or "destroy").
This exfoliating action eliminates dead cells accumulated on the surface, preventing clogged pores, one of the main causes of pimples and blackheads.
Salicylic acid acts as a chemical exfoliant that breaks down the bonds between dead skin cells, making them easier to remove. This gentle yet effective exfoliation keeps pores clean, reducing the formation of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads) and the inflammation responsible for pimples.
How does salicylic acid act on the skin?
Salicylic acid penetrates deep into pores, helping to dissolve excess sebum and impurities that accumulate there. By eliminating dead cells and unclogging pores, it refines skin texture and reduces the appearance of blackheads and pimples. For combination and oily skin, it is particularly beneficial as it regulates sebum production, reducing shine and breakouts.
Salicylic acid is fat-soluble, which means it can penetrate clogged, sebum-filled pores. Once inside the pores, it reduces inflammation and disintegrates sebum plugs, preventing the formation of new pimples. What's more, by controllingexcess sebum, it helps prevent oily skin and maintain a more even, matte complexion.
Use of salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is often included in cleansers, toners, serums and targeted treatments. When applied to local imperfections, it helps reduce inflammation and accelerate healing. Regular use can also improve a dull complexion, making the skin brighter and more even-toned.
To integrate salicylic acid into your skincare routine, start with a gentle cleanser containing a low concentration of this acid to get your skin used to it. Then introduce serums or more concentrated treatments to target problem areas. Always apply a moisturizer after using salicylic acid products to avoid dryness.
Precautions for use
Although salicylic acid is highly effective, it's important to use it with care, especially on sensitive areas like the eye area. Too high a concentration or too frequent use can lead to irritation or excessive dryness. We recommend starting with low-concentration products and gradually increasing according to skin tolerance.
Be sure to do a patch test before incorporating new salicylic acid products into your routine. Apply a small amount of the product to an inconspicuous area of your skin and wait 24 hours to check for any allergic reaction or irritation. If redness or burning occurs, reduce the frequency of use or try a product with a lower concentration.
Comparison with glycolic acid
Salicylic acid is often compared toglycolic acid, another popular exfoliating agent. While glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that primarily exfoliates the skin's surface, salicylic acid, as BHA, penetrates deeper into the pores. The two acids can complement each other: glycolic acid for immediate surface radiance and salicylic acid for deeper treatment of clogged pores, pimples and blackheads.
Glycolic acid is excellent for brightening the complexion and improving skin texture by removing superficial dead cells. It is often recommended to treat fine lines, brown spots and dullness. By using these two acids alternately, you can benefit from complete exfoliation, both on the surface and deep down, optimizing your skin's health and appearance.
What ingredients should salicylic acid be used with?
Hyaluronic acid:
- Why: Hyaluronic acid is a powerful moisturizer that helps maintain skin hydration, reducing the risk of dryness and irritation often associated with the use of salicylic acid.
- How to: Apply a hyaluronic acid-based serum or cream after using a product containing salicylic acid to soothe and moisturize the skin.
Niacinamide:
- Why: Niacinamide (or vitamin B3) has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, and helps regulate sebum production. It also improves the skin's barrier function.
- How: Use a niacinamide-based serum after applying a salicylic acid product to soothe the skin and reduce inflammation.
Peptides:
- Why: Peptides help strengthen the skin barrier and stimulate collagen production, improving skin's overall appearance.
- How: Apply peptide-containing products after using salicylic acid to help repair and strengthen skin.
Ceramides:
- Why: Ceramides help restore and maintain the skin's protective barrier, essential for preventing moisture loss and irritation.
- How: Use a moisturizing cream containing ceramides after applying salicylic acid to nourish and protect the skin.
Which ingredients should salicylic acid not be used with?
Retinoids (such as retinol)
- Why: Retinoids are highly effective at stimulating cell renewal, but combining them with salicylic acid can lead to excessive irritation, dryness and redness.
- How to avoid: Use retinoids and salicylic acid at different times of the day (e.g. salicylic acid in the morning and retinol in the evening) or alternate each evening to avoid irritation.
Benzoyl peroxide
- Why: Benzoyl peroxide is another powerful acne treatment, but when used with salicylic acid, it can cause severe dryness and irritation.
- How to avoid: Apply salicylic acid in the morning and benzoyl peroxide in the evening, or alternate days of use.
Multiple exfoliating acids (such as additional AHAs and BHAs)
- Why: Using multiple exfoliating acids (e.g. glycolic acid, lactic acid) at the same time as salicylic acid can lead to over-exfoliation, causing redness, flaking and irritation.
- How to avoid: Limit yourself to one type of exfoliating acid per skincare routine. If you want to use different types of acid, do so alternately (for example, salicylic acid one day and glycolic acid another).
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)
- Why: Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, but it can be unstable and irritating when combined with exfoliating acids such as salicylic acid. This can lead to rapid vitamin C breakdown and increased skin irritation.
- How to avoid: Use vitamin C in the morning and salicylic acid in the evening to maximize the benefits of each ingredient without the risk of negative interactions.
Products containing alcohol
- Why: Products containing alcohol can dry out the skin, and their use with salicylic acid can exacerbate this dryness, leading to increased irritation and sensitivity.
- How to avoid: Choose alcohol-free products to avoid adding extra dryness to the skin.
General advice to avoid irritation
- Patch test: Before incorporating new products into your routine, always carry out a patch test to check your skin's tolerance.
- Moisturizing: Use moisturizing products to counter the potential dryness caused by salicylic acid. Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides and peptides can help maintain a healthy skin barrier.
- Listen to your skin: If you notice any signs of irritation (redness, flaking, burning), reduce the frequency of use of salicylic acid and consult a dermatologist if necessary.
In conclusion, salicylic acid is a key ingredient in any skincare routine designed to treat skin problems such as acne, blackheads and blemishes. Its keratolytic and exfoliating action helps remove dead skin cells, regulateexcess sebum and refine skin texture, resulting in clearer, more even skin. For optimum results, it's essential to choose products suited to your skin type and use them appropriately.