Mandelic acid: benefits for the skin

In the dynamic world of skincare, AHA and BHA fruit acids have taken the cosmetics shelves by storm. 

Among them, mandelic acid stands out as a versatile and effective option for a variety of skin problems. In this article, we explore the benefits of mandelic acid and its multiple properties.

What is mandelic acid?

Mandelic acid belongs to the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family.

AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, are popular cosmetic ingredients widely used for their exfoliating and skin-rejuvenating properties. Derived from fruits and other natural sources, they are known for their ability to remove dead skin cells, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, improve skin texture and promote cell renewal.

The AHAs most commonly used in cosmetics include glycolic acid (derived from sugar cane), lactic acid (derived from milk), mandelic acid (derived from bitter almonds), citric acid (derived from citrus fruit) and tartaric acid (derived from grapes).

Mandelic acid is obtained by extraction or synthesis from these bitter almonds. After various purification and chemical transformation processes, it is produced as a crystalline powder, which is then used in a variety of skin care products for its gentle exfoliating properties and other skin benefits.

The benefits of mandelic acid

• Gentle exfoliation

Mandelic acid exfoliates the skin by removing dead cells from the surface, helping to reveal smoother, more radiant skin. Unlike other fruit acids such as glycolic acid, mandelic acid is gentler, making it suitable even for sensitive skin.

• Reduces enlarged pores

Mandelic acid works on enlarged pores by gently exfoliating the skin to remove dead cells and pore-clogging impurities. By promoting cell renewal, it helps to tighten pores and reduce their appearance, while regulating sebum production to maintain skin balance.

• Anti-inflammatory properties

Mandelic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it an ideal choice for those struggling with rashes and inflammation. It can help calm the skin and reduce redness associated with acne and other inflammatory skin conditions.

• Suitable for the eye contour area

Unlike some other AHAs, which can be too powerful for the delicate eye area, mandelic acid is gentle yet effective, making it an excellent choice for targeting fine lines, dark circles and puffiness in this sensitive region.

• Suitable for sensitive skin

Due to its gentle nature, mandelic acid is generally well tolerated even by sensitive skin. It offers the benefits of exfoliation without causing excessive irritation, making it suitable for regular use.

• Skin radiance

By removing dead skin cells and stimulating cell renewal, mandelic acid helps reveal a brighter, more even complexion. It can also help diminish spots by gently exfoliating the skin's surface layer, helping to remove the pigmented cells and melanin pigments responsible for brown spots.

• Wrinkle reduction

Mandelic acid plays a crucial role in combating the signs of aging, particularly by reducing wrinkles and restoringepidermal elasticity. By promoting controlled exfoliation, it eliminates damaged, aging epidermal cells, replacing them with younger, firmer cells, stimulating skin renewal and visibly reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

Studies also reveal that chemical exfoliants, such as mandelic acid, activate dermal fibroblasts to stimulate the production of new essential skin components such as collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, although the exact mechanism remains unknown.

In addition, other research points out that mandelic acid regulates sebum production, helping to maintain skin hydration, particularly when it is dry or damaged. Finally, a study shows that topical treatment with mandelic acid resulted in a significant 23% improvement in skin firmness and a 25% increase in lower eyelid skin elasticity after just four weeks of use. These results conclude that mandelic acid represents an effective option for improving overall skin quality.

How to use mandelic acid

Mandelicacid can be found in a variety of skin care products, including cleansing gels , toners, serums and peels. Here are some tips for incorporating it into your skin care routine:

Mandelic acid cleanser: Use a cleanser containing mandelic acid to thoroughly cleanse your skin and remove impurities and dead surface cells.

Serum or cream: Opt for serums or creams containing mandelic acid for targeted application. Apply after cleansing on clean skin and before your moisturizer for optimal results.

Mandelic acid peel: For more intense exfoliation, consider using a mandelic acid peel once a week. Follow product instructions to avoid irritation.

Sun protection: As with any exfoliating product, it's essential to protect your skin from sun damage by using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an appropriate SPF.

The difference between mandelic acid and salicylic acid

Salicylic acid and mandelic acid are therefore two types of acid used in skin care products for their ability to exfoliate the skin. Although they have similar mechanisms of action, there are some important differences.

• Mechanism of action

Salicylic acid is a lipophilic beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). It has the ability to penetrate deep into the skin's pores, where it works to dissolve oils and dead skin cells. This helps to unclog pores and prevent the appearance of blackheads, acne and pimples.

Mandelic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived frombitter almonds. It works by exfoliating the skin's surface layer, helping to remove dead skin cells and stimulate cell renewal. However, it is less penetrating than salicylic acid.

• Efficiency

Salicylic acid is particularly effective in treating skin imperfections and acne-prone skin. By penetrating deep into the pores, it can help eliminate impurities and prevent clogged hair follicles.

Mandelic acid is also effective for exfoliating the skin and improving its radiance. Using mandelic acid can help reduce the appearance of enlarged pores, dark spots and fine lines, while providing gentle, even exfoliation.

• Skin tolerance

Because of its ability to penetrate deep into the pores, salicylic acid can sometimes cause irritation in people with sensitive or reactive skin. We recommend starting with a lower concentration and gradually increasing, while monitoring for any skin reaction.

Mandelic acid is generally better tolerated by sensitive skin due to its gentle nature. However, as with any exfoliating product, it's important to do a patch test before widespread use to make sure it's right for your skin.

Conclusion

Mandelic acid offers a multitude of skin benefits, from gentle exfoliation to the reduction of enlarged pores to its anti-inflammatory properties. Whether you have sensitive, breakout-prone skin, or are simply looking to improve the radiance of your complexion, mandelic acid can be a valuable addition to your skincare routine. Remember to always do a patch test before introducing new products into your routine, and consult a dermatologist if you have any specific concerns about your skin.