What are the benefits of azelaic acid?

The cosmetics industry is constantly evolving, with the emergence of revolutionary new ingredients. One of them, azelaic acid, has attracted attention for its multiple benefits for the skin.

What is azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid, an organic compound with two carboxyl groups in its molecular structure. This acid is naturally present in certain foods such as wheat, barley and barley, but it's its use in cosmetics that has attracted growing interest. Azelaic acid is also produced by human skin as a by-product of fatty acid metabolism.

In terms of chemical structure, azelaic acid takes the form of a linear carbon chain of nine carbon atoms, with two carboxyl groups (COOH) at the ends. This unique configuration gives azelaic acid properties that make it a valuable active ingredient for the skin.

The cosmetics industry is constantly evolving, with the emergence of revolutionary new ingredients. One of them, azelaic acid, has attracted attention for its multiple benefits for the skin.

What are the benefits of azelaic acid?

• Improved skin texture: Azelaic acid is renowned for its gentle exfoliating properties, helping to remove dead skin cells. This regular exfoliation helps refine skin texture, leaving skin smoother and brighter.
• Treating blackheads: Those with blackhead problems will find azelaic acid an effective ally. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties, oily, granular skin can be transformed into smooth skin.
• Anti-inflammatory properties: Azelaic acid is renowned for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a wise choice for those suffering from skin conditions such asacne and rosacea. It works by soothing skin inflammation and reducing the redness associated with these conditions.
• Anti-bacterial properties: In addition to its anti-inflammatory action, azelaic acid also demonstrates antibacterial properties. This can be particularly beneficial foracne-prone skin with sebum imbalance, where azelaic acid can help control the proliferation of acne-causing bacteria.
• Reducing hyperpigmentation: Another virtue of azelaic acid is its ability to reduce pigmentation spots and hyperpigmentation. It works by inhibitingexcess melanin, helping to even out skin tone.

When to use azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid has been shown to be effective in the treatment of comedonal acne and inflammatory acne (papulopustular, nodular and nodulocystic), as well as in varioushyperpigmentation skin disorders characterized by abnormal/hyperactive melanocyte function, including melasma and possibly malignant lentigo.

Moreover, azelaic acid exerts an antiproliferative and cytotoxic effect on human malignant melanocytes, and preliminary results indicate that it may slow the progression of cutaneous malignant melanoma.

Here are some recommendations for its use:

• Acne treatment: Due to its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties, azelaic acid is often recommended as a topical treatment for acne. It can be applied directly to affected areas to reduce inflammation and prevent the formation of new lesions.
• Complexion improvement: For those looking to improve skin texture and clarity, azelaic acid can be incorporated into a regular skincare routine. Its gentle exfoliating action helps remove dead skin cells, promoting a more even complexion.
• Rosacea management: People with rosacea, a skin condition characterized by redness and dilated blood vessels, can benefit from the application of azelaic acid. Its soothing properties help reduce redness and improve skin texture.
• Pigmentation spot reduction: Azelaic acid is also recommended for reducing pigmentation spots and hyperpigmentation. It can be applied topically to spots to help even out skin tone.

What not to mix with azelaic acid?

Although azelaic acid is generally well tolerated, it's essential to know which products you shouldn't mix with to avoid possible adverse reactions. In particular, combining azelaic acid with certain ingredients can compromise its efficacy or cause irritation. Here are some substances to avoid mixing with azelaic acid:

• Retinoids: Retinoids, such as tretinoin and adapalene, are powerful ingredients often used to treat acne. However, combining them with azelaic acid can increase the risk of skin irritation. If you already use retinoids, it's advisable to consult a healthcare professional before incorporating azelaic acid into your routine.
• Products containing vitamin C: Although vitamin C is a beneficial ingredient for the skin, its simultaneous use with azelaic acid can lead to a reduction in their respective efficacy. To avoid this, we recommend applying these ingredients at different times of the day.
• Benzoyl peroxide-based products: Benzoyl peroxide is another ingredient frequently used in anti-acne products. Combining azelaic acid with products containing benzoyl peroxide can cause excessive skin irritation, so it's best to use them at different times or on different areas of the skin.

Which active ingredient to use with azelaic acid?

When it comes to maximizing the benefits of azelaic acid, it can be combined with other active ingredients to reinforce its positive effects. Certain complementary ingredients can be integrated into a skincare routine for optimum synergy:

• Hyaluronic acid: For optimum hydration, a hyaluronic acid moisturizer can be combined with azelaic acid. Hyaluronic acid attracts moisture, helping to keep skin hydrated and balanced.
• Niacinamide (vitamin B3): Niacinamide is known for its soothing and brightening properties. In combination with azelaic acid, it can help improve skin texture while reducing redness.
• Chamomile extract: To further soothe the skin, chamomile extract can be a wise choice. It works well in tandem with azelaic acid to calm skin inflammation.

In conclusion, azelaic acid is emerging as a versatile skincare ingredient, offering a wide range of benefits for various skin problems. Whether you're battling acne, looking to improve skin texture or diminish pigmentation spots, azelaic acid can be a valuable addition to your skincare routine.

However, it is essential to take appropriate precautions, avoiding mixing azelaic acid with certain products and favoring synergistic associations with other active ingredients. What's more, it's always advisable to consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist before incorporating new ingredients into your skincare routine, especially if you have specific concerns about your skin.

By adopting a thoughtful approach and understanding the specific benefits of azelaic acid, you can harness the full potential of this active ingredient to achieve radiant, healthy, glowing skin. Remember to follow a consistent routine, adjust concentrations according to your individual needs, and give your skin the care it deserves, morning and night.

 

Sources

Fitton A, Goa KL. Azelaic acid. A review of its pharmacological properties and therapeutic efficacy in acne and hyperpigmentary skin disorders. Drugs. 1991 May;41(5):780-98. doi: 10.2165/00003495-199141050-00007. PMID: 1712709.

Searle T, Ali FR, Al-Niaimi F. The versatility of azelaic acid in dermatology. J Dermatolog Treat. 2022 Mar;33(2):722-732. doi: 10.1080/09546634.2020.1800579. Epub 2020 Aug 4. PMID: 32730109.